Ban’s dive shop is the place to be on Hat Sai Ri. It’s where the best music, most people, and best beach layout can be found. At night, it also hosts the world’s best pancake maker (self-proclaimed of course). There’s a nice local guy who sets up his portable kitchen right along the walk path that cuts through Ban’s. His marketing scheme is to simply yell out, “Best pancake! Best pancake! Hey, you my friend… Best Pancake!” I must say that the man isn’t lying. I think I averaged about a pancake a night. My favorite was the apple cinnamon and honey but I also enjoyed the Gnutella/Chocolate pancake.
After an enjoyable few days of diving, I moved out of my nice resort style accommodations to the much cheaper bungalow. Even still, you cannot beat any sort of room that is a stone’s throw from the ocean for just under $10. After diving I had a good six days to just relax on the beach and explore the island.
My new friends Dustin and Shane and I rented motobikes for two days and took them around the island to check it all out. On the south side are a nice cove and a more laid back beach if one is looking to escape reality even further. There is a fun bench swing that hangs out over the water during high tide that I spent a few hours on relaxing to the sounds of lapping waves below me. Since I was traveling alone, I was more interested in being where the action was so although I stayed on the south side for two nights, I ended up back in Hat Sai Ri. The three of us also took the motobikes to the north (which takes only about 10 minutes). On the main road that stretched the island north to south, one can really let loose with the motobike. We got those things hauling up to about 55mph but I didn’t stay there for very long since I didn’t have a helmet. To get to the north side of the island requires navigating some windy, steep, and mostly dirt roads. Although our motobikes weren’t meant for off-roading, they got us there. My buddy Dustin unfortunately put his on its side adding a few scratches to it. At the top of the trail is a beautiful view of the island looking south. From there you can take a pathway down the hill, through some resort bungalows, and finally to a nice platform over the water. There isn’t any beach on the north side at Mango Bay, but diving off of the platform was still fun. There were tons of fish making for good snorkeling. It was nice, but I still preferred the west facing beach of Hat Sai Ri.
After our two days of romping around on motobikes, we all went our own ways with different itineraries. It was nice meeting these new friends and enjoyed hanging out with company on the island. Dustin and Shane both left Koh Tao while I stayed. I spent the remainder of my time just being lazy on the beach, swimming, and relaxing. At night I hung out with a few others from our dive group who had stayed longer as well. One guy originally planned his stay on Koh Tao to be four days; he ended up staying a full month. After being there for a week, you start to recognize all of the long timers and you realize just how small the island is. You see the same people every day doing the same ‘ol thing. They’re either diving or hanging out on the beach. It was truly paradise; the phrase ‘no shirt, no shoes, no problem’ actually applies here. I didn’t touch my sandals at all and only wore a shirt at night. This was the kind of place you feel you could live forever.
But then again, paradise is only paradise for so long. Towards the end of my stay, my smiled started to fade. It is nice escaping to some tropical paradise, but it sucks doing it alone. I longed for a companion of some sort but understood my circumstances. You meet people for sure, but there is just a lack of intimate connection. After my experience on Koh Tao, I’ve made some serious conclusions about life. First off, life is not worth living without someone to share it with (although being single does have its benefits, having a significant other eventually outweighs those benefits). Second, it doesn’t matter where you are or what you are doing as long as you are with the ones you love. Finally, life is all about relationships; there is no sum of money, no island so perfect, no set of circumstances so ideal that could ever fulfill one’s heart like relationships can. Granted, these are not ground breaking truths that I’m talking about here. I just further appreciate them now having first hand experience with what they really mean.
On my second to last day I decided to do two more dives just for the fun of it. The water visibility had progressively gotten worse since I had arrived, however. My fun dives weren’t as exciting as the first dives I had done but I at least got to see two new dive spots. It was also nice just to be back in the water. Like I said before, I love the ocean; any day in the water is a great day for me! I soaked in my last night dancing with some friends from Switzerland at a cool place called the Lotus Bar. We had a great night but I was ready to move on.
I enjoyed my time on Koh Tao and was thankful for the opportunity to dive. I was also grateful for the people I had met and the experiences we shared. With my trip now more than half over, it was time to make my way back north to Bangkok. I would continue straight up through Laos, stopping in two cities, on my way back to Kunming.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Thursday, March 4, 2010
SE Asia-Koh Tao (part 1)
I booked my train ticket with two nice German guys so it was fun riding down from Bangkok with them. The trains in Thailand carry many more foreigners than the trains in China so it’s fun to meet other people and hear what they’re up to. We arrived to the port in Chumpon just in time to watch a spectacular sunrise. Everything was coming together and I was so thrilled to finally be by the ocean. Tired from the sleepless night on the train, I conked out on the three hour ferry ride for a good majority of it. As we approached Hat Sai Ri and the bay, the water began to change from a deep ocean blue to a pristine turquoise and sky-blue color. I thought the water was even clearer and nicer than that of Bocas Del Toro, Panama (I had dived Bocas Del Toro, four years ago while studying abroad in Costa Rica). While on the ferry, you are bombarded by representatives from different dive resorts on the island and they all give you the same spiel. It’s funny too because the prices are pretty much all the same and you could literally pick a brochure out of a hat and not go wrong. I decided just to walk around and find a place on my own.
The German guys headed to the other side of the island for some rock climbing while I was more interested in diving. We parted ways and I walked down the pathway that parallels the beach in search of the right dive shop. The beach at Hat Sai Ri is no more than 2km long, the island being very small itself. As I made my way along the path I had passed a place called Ban’s Dive Resort which just felt right and seemed like the place to be. I booked a spot for the Advanced Open Water course and was in the pool that afternoon doing my refresher course (I couldn’t believe that it had been four years since I was living it up in Panama where I had earned my Open Water license). The rooms are included in the price for divers and were really nice. So for three nights I lived it up before moving to a cheaper bungalow.
My instructor that afternoon was a nice guy from Italy who was impressed with how much knowledge I had retained; I had to explain to him that I reviewed the whole Open Water book on my way there (I spent a lot of time on buses and trains). I was most nervous about my ear but it was fine in the pool. I went into the ocean afterwards to test it some more by doing some deeper free dives. But I was able to clear with no problem which helped calm my nerves. I had a delicious burger that night at the Fishbowl, Ban’s beachside bar and restaurant. It seriously rivals Duke’s Waikiki as my favorite restaurant in the world. I ended up joining an extremely sweet Australian girl for the sunset since I was sick of being alone and she was cruisin’ solo. She was also a Christian traveling alone which made her easy to talk to. The sunset that first night was absolutely incredible. The oranges and blues were spectacular (yes, God is a Broncos fan!) as the sun cast its beams on and around the clouds. The effect was breathtaking; truly divine. I couldn’t believe that I was on some island thousands of miles away from home enjoying the best art show in the world. I could have never predicted this was where I’d be if you had asked me one year ago (or even six months ago for that matter). I feel truly blessed.
My new friend and I sat there talking about our travels and the difficulties of traveling alone, missing family and friends and all. We continued talking despite our eyes being sucked into the orange fireball as it ducked beneath the sea. Once the sun retired, we both realized that we were in a conversation about nothing which was sort of funny. It was nice having company for the evening. Even the soft oranges of a paradisaical sunset can not always fill the void of being away from friends and family; but company did. I was set to dive the next morning so I thanked her for allowing me to join her and made my way to bed. Unfortunately I only saw her one time after our pleasant conversation but would meet others from diving.
The next morning we all gathered for a quick school session before heading out for our morning dive. Our instructor was a cute girl from the UK who had been living on Koh Tao as a dive instructor for five years. I was jealous. Our first dive spot was called Chumpon Pinnacle. I had great hopes of seeing the world famous wale shark but unfortunately struck out. During the first dive we did see an amazing 10ft. bull shark that swam within about 10ft. of us. After about five minutes of swimming around we all heard the banging of our instructors tank as she tried to get our attention. She made the shark signal and pointed somewhere off in the deep blue. Then all of a sudden the beautiful creature appeared. Everybody says that they’d be terrified to dive with a shark, but when you’re down there it’s the most harmonious and peaceful thing to experience. As I took in deep breaths from my SCUBA tank (helps conserve oxygen), I floated neutrally buoyant and watched the beast as it swam. It slowly got closer and I began to wonder where everyone was. Everyone was behind me! Great; I kept thinking, if this shark gets aggressive, I’m the first to go. That’d be a fun post card home. But my instructor actually came into view a little in front of me so I felt better. The shark swam from right to left opening its jaws for whatever reason. It was quite impressive to see its jaws completely open. That was until it came towards us. The large creature slipped right on by us at about 10ft. I think it was just curious but made all of our days. After seeing the shark we continued down to our target depth of 30m (roughly 100ft). You’re supposed to experience Nitrogen Narcosis which has similar symptoms to that of being drunk. I didn’t feel anything but people are known to do crazy things. Our instructor told us that she’d seen people try to give their regulator to fishes thinking that the fish couldn’t breathe. My ears were fine at 30m which meant I could continue the dive course with no problem. Relieved that my ringing ear was fine, I was as high as a kite when we finished the dive.
I love the ocean and everything about it. SCUBA diving unlocks a world in which most humans fail to realize exist or dare to explore. It’s fun to go to the beach, swim, and surf. But its life changing to penetrate the surface and enter into another element. Of course anyone can see sharks at SeaWorld. But to see a shark in the open, on his turf, was absolutely phenomenal. As we left Chumpon Pinnacle for our next dive spot, we all high-fived each other stoked on life. The shark was cool, but for me the best part about diving was the cookies on the boat. There was about a five gallon cookie jar that was stored full of some delicious cream filled cookies. I ate at least 30 of them that day (what can I say, I like cookies). On our second dive we worked on navigational exercises and got comfortable diving on our own without the instructor. The dive spot was cool but what made the day was our final dive.
In order to receive your Advanced Open Water certificate, one must complete a Deep Dive, Navigational Dive, and three optional adventure dives. One of those optional dives is a Night Dive. It is one that almost everybody at Ban’s does. After returning to the resort and having dinner, we loaded up again and headed back out as the sun was setting. We dove the same spot as our second dive since we were now familiar with it. With flashlights in hand, we headed down. During the day, light from the sun penetrates the water. When it hits the surface, white light refracts and splits into its basic colors (those of the rainbow). There are different angles of refraction among the different frequencies (colors) of light; therefore, you loose particular colors the deeper you dive. At 30m depth, you loose the reds and oranges that you may see at 5m depth. The deeper you go, the more everything becomes violet and blue. During a night dive, however, you take a flashlight down with you. This allows you to bring out more colors among the reef and see more brilliant fish than you normally would during the day. Thus the night dive is very fun and unique to see the different colors. What also made the dive special was the bioluminescence.
There are particular plankton that absorb energy from the sun at the surface of the water during the day. At night they sink back down to deeper depths, and if disturbed, give off that energy in the form of a glow. I had seen this phenomenon in its purest form in Puerto Rico this past summer. However, we were not allowed to swim in the water in order to preserve the plankton. Our night dive was different. We all gathered in a circle at one point and our instructor signaled us to cut our flashlights. Then, all of a sudden, he just started going bananas. We quickly realized what was up as the plankton lit up all around him from the disturbance. We followed suit and soon enough our whole group looked like we were cracked out. Everyone was going crazy, flipping all around, and making as much commotion as possible. It was truly a special sight. It was a perfect end to a perfect day. Although diving is a very relaxing activity, I was exhausted from doing three dives that day. We had two more dives to do the next day so I took it easy that night. Every night Ban’s sets up an awesome beach seen with live music, fire throwers, and bean bags to lay back and gaze at the stars. Two Thai guys twirl fire to the beat of the music (performed by two other foreign guys: one with an awesome voice and the other who played the guitar and harmonica simultaneously). So I enjoyed a beer with my new dive friends as the melodies of Jack Johnson and Bob Marley along with the memorizing twirl of fire lulled us all into the perfect trance. Life is good!
to be continued…
PICTURES of Bangkok and Koh Tao:
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Bangkok-Koh%20Tao?h=bc409a
The German guys headed to the other side of the island for some rock climbing while I was more interested in diving. We parted ways and I walked down the pathway that parallels the beach in search of the right dive shop. The beach at Hat Sai Ri is no more than 2km long, the island being very small itself. As I made my way along the path I had passed a place called Ban’s Dive Resort which just felt right and seemed like the place to be. I booked a spot for the Advanced Open Water course and was in the pool that afternoon doing my refresher course (I couldn’t believe that it had been four years since I was living it up in Panama where I had earned my Open Water license). The rooms are included in the price for divers and were really nice. So for three nights I lived it up before moving to a cheaper bungalow.
My instructor that afternoon was a nice guy from Italy who was impressed with how much knowledge I had retained; I had to explain to him that I reviewed the whole Open Water book on my way there (I spent a lot of time on buses and trains). I was most nervous about my ear but it was fine in the pool. I went into the ocean afterwards to test it some more by doing some deeper free dives. But I was able to clear with no problem which helped calm my nerves. I had a delicious burger that night at the Fishbowl, Ban’s beachside bar and restaurant. It seriously rivals Duke’s Waikiki as my favorite restaurant in the world. I ended up joining an extremely sweet Australian girl for the sunset since I was sick of being alone and she was cruisin’ solo. She was also a Christian traveling alone which made her easy to talk to. The sunset that first night was absolutely incredible. The oranges and blues were spectacular (yes, God is a Broncos fan!) as the sun cast its beams on and around the clouds. The effect was breathtaking; truly divine. I couldn’t believe that I was on some island thousands of miles away from home enjoying the best art show in the world. I could have never predicted this was where I’d be if you had asked me one year ago (or even six months ago for that matter). I feel truly blessed.
My new friend and I sat there talking about our travels and the difficulties of traveling alone, missing family and friends and all. We continued talking despite our eyes being sucked into the orange fireball as it ducked beneath the sea. Once the sun retired, we both realized that we were in a conversation about nothing which was sort of funny. It was nice having company for the evening. Even the soft oranges of a paradisaical sunset can not always fill the void of being away from friends and family; but company did. I was set to dive the next morning so I thanked her for allowing me to join her and made my way to bed. Unfortunately I only saw her one time after our pleasant conversation but would meet others from diving.
The next morning we all gathered for a quick school session before heading out for our morning dive. Our instructor was a cute girl from the UK who had been living on Koh Tao as a dive instructor for five years. I was jealous. Our first dive spot was called Chumpon Pinnacle. I had great hopes of seeing the world famous wale shark but unfortunately struck out. During the first dive we did see an amazing 10ft. bull shark that swam within about 10ft. of us. After about five minutes of swimming around we all heard the banging of our instructors tank as she tried to get our attention. She made the shark signal and pointed somewhere off in the deep blue. Then all of a sudden the beautiful creature appeared. Everybody says that they’d be terrified to dive with a shark, but when you’re down there it’s the most harmonious and peaceful thing to experience. As I took in deep breaths from my SCUBA tank (helps conserve oxygen), I floated neutrally buoyant and watched the beast as it swam. It slowly got closer and I began to wonder where everyone was. Everyone was behind me! Great; I kept thinking, if this shark gets aggressive, I’m the first to go. That’d be a fun post card home. But my instructor actually came into view a little in front of me so I felt better. The shark swam from right to left opening its jaws for whatever reason. It was quite impressive to see its jaws completely open. That was until it came towards us. The large creature slipped right on by us at about 10ft. I think it was just curious but made all of our days. After seeing the shark we continued down to our target depth of 30m (roughly 100ft). You’re supposed to experience Nitrogen Narcosis which has similar symptoms to that of being drunk. I didn’t feel anything but people are known to do crazy things. Our instructor told us that she’d seen people try to give their regulator to fishes thinking that the fish couldn’t breathe. My ears were fine at 30m which meant I could continue the dive course with no problem. Relieved that my ringing ear was fine, I was as high as a kite when we finished the dive.
I love the ocean and everything about it. SCUBA diving unlocks a world in which most humans fail to realize exist or dare to explore. It’s fun to go to the beach, swim, and surf. But its life changing to penetrate the surface and enter into another element. Of course anyone can see sharks at SeaWorld. But to see a shark in the open, on his turf, was absolutely phenomenal. As we left Chumpon Pinnacle for our next dive spot, we all high-fived each other stoked on life. The shark was cool, but for me the best part about diving was the cookies on the boat. There was about a five gallon cookie jar that was stored full of some delicious cream filled cookies. I ate at least 30 of them that day (what can I say, I like cookies). On our second dive we worked on navigational exercises and got comfortable diving on our own without the instructor. The dive spot was cool but what made the day was our final dive.
In order to receive your Advanced Open Water certificate, one must complete a Deep Dive, Navigational Dive, and three optional adventure dives. One of those optional dives is a Night Dive. It is one that almost everybody at Ban’s does. After returning to the resort and having dinner, we loaded up again and headed back out as the sun was setting. We dove the same spot as our second dive since we were now familiar with it. With flashlights in hand, we headed down. During the day, light from the sun penetrates the water. When it hits the surface, white light refracts and splits into its basic colors (those of the rainbow). There are different angles of refraction among the different frequencies (colors) of light; therefore, you loose particular colors the deeper you dive. At 30m depth, you loose the reds and oranges that you may see at 5m depth. The deeper you go, the more everything becomes violet and blue. During a night dive, however, you take a flashlight down with you. This allows you to bring out more colors among the reef and see more brilliant fish than you normally would during the day. Thus the night dive is very fun and unique to see the different colors. What also made the dive special was the bioluminescence.
There are particular plankton that absorb energy from the sun at the surface of the water during the day. At night they sink back down to deeper depths, and if disturbed, give off that energy in the form of a glow. I had seen this phenomenon in its purest form in Puerto Rico this past summer. However, we were not allowed to swim in the water in order to preserve the plankton. Our night dive was different. We all gathered in a circle at one point and our instructor signaled us to cut our flashlights. Then, all of a sudden, he just started going bananas. We quickly realized what was up as the plankton lit up all around him from the disturbance. We followed suit and soon enough our whole group looked like we were cracked out. Everyone was going crazy, flipping all around, and making as much commotion as possible. It was truly a special sight. It was a perfect end to a perfect day. Although diving is a very relaxing activity, I was exhausted from doing three dives that day. We had two more dives to do the next day so I took it easy that night. Every night Ban’s sets up an awesome beach seen with live music, fire throwers, and bean bags to lay back and gaze at the stars. Two Thai guys twirl fire to the beat of the music (performed by two other foreign guys: one with an awesome voice and the other who played the guitar and harmonica simultaneously). So I enjoyed a beer with my new dive friends as the melodies of Jack Johnson and Bob Marley along with the memorizing twirl of fire lulled us all into the perfect trance. Life is good!
to be continued…
PICTURES of Bangkok and Koh Tao:
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Bangkok-Koh%20Tao?h=bc409a
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
SE Asia-Bangkok, Thailand
The road that leads from Saigon through Cambodia and on to Bangkok covers nothing but flat plains. As I gazed out the window on our way to Bangkok I felt like I was driving north on I-25 towards Ft. Collins, CO; nothing for miles except farm land. It was refreshing to be outside of the cities and in the open range again. There’s just something about open space that makes me feel at home.
Our ride to Bangkok would go a little different than I had anticipated. I was picked up from the guest house in an old Toyota car which I thought would take me to the bus station. Instead we picked up three Korean tourists and made the drive to the border in the car. I had no problem with it, just didn’t anticipate a personal driver. Once at the border, several other cars dropped off more tourists. We all huddled together with our pretty red stickers on our shirts indicating that we were headed to the same place. We walked across the border and then gathered with people who had the same color sticker. Our group from the car merged with another group to share a minibus into Bangkok. The minibus driver thought he was Mario Andredi and I swear we hit 100+ miles/hour several times on the main highway into town. But that’s how everybody was driving; we were even being passed! None the less, the high velocity put everybody on edge. After saying a few prayers I sat back and enjoyed the setting sun straight ahead.
We got into Bangkok during traffic hour but were still on time thanks to Jeff Gordon. We dropped a French couple and one other guy off at their hotel before proceeding to the main tourist area around Khaosan Road. When backpacking anywhere, you’re always cognizant of your belongings. I usually carry my pack in my lap for simply not trusting its security under or even on top of any bus, depending on its storage configuration. Since we had a minibus and small group, I had no problem just throwing my bag in the back with everybody else’s. But when we arrived at Khaosan Road I immediately noticed the French guys pack (who we had just dropped off several miles away). When I didn’t see my bag I knew just what had happened. Frenchy took my pack instead of his since they were similar in style. So here I was, stuck on some foreign street, now dark, with some other guy’s bag. A nice Canadian couple and Korean guy who were on our bus waited to help me troubleshoot what to do. Fortunately someone mentioned a police station close by and recommended I go there, if nothing else, to report what had happened. I kept thinking that it was going to be impossible to find this dude who now had my bag. The only info I had was his address in France; no cell phone number, knowledge of itinerary, or any way to get in contact with him other than to bump into him on the street. A nice police officer inside the station helped me try to call the bus service to possibly get some more details. While calling I looked up towards the heavens and asked God for a miracle (since that’s what it was going to take) when all of a sudden Frenchy busted through the doors. I knew since I had his bag that he would be looking for me, but what were the odds that he would think to go to the police station as well! I couldn’t believe it!! Bangkok is no small city. There are at least a hundred different guest houses around Khaosan Road and yet through some quick act of God we found each other and were able to exchange bags. He had been to Khaosan Road before and remembered the police station; what luck. We immediately embraced happy to have our proper possessions and had a beer over the minor incident. What a crazy way to start my Thailand adventure!
After shaking hands and wishing each other well, I set off to choose one of many GH for the next two nights. I visited at least a dozen that were all full before finding a really cheap but OK room a little ways away.
Khaosan Road is a cool strip about half a mile long where you can find an assortment of T-shirts and other goods. The T-shirts are unique, however, for the designs are unlike anything you’ve ever seen. They have some pretty cool retro shirts with Tony the Tiger and Toucan-Sam on them. I picked up a few over the next two days that I really like but the street vendors mostly sell a bunch of junk. There are several bars as well along the road and the place was teeming with tourists. My first night in Bangkok was great… it’s always fun to arrive in some place you’ve never been before and explore around. The following day I did just that.
I visited a cool temple which hosted a ginormous gold Buddha that was lying on its side. I was sick of temples though so I just walked around the city. I found the train station and booked my much anticipated ticket south to Koh Tao, a dive island in the Gulf of Thailand. On my way back I dropped by a hospital to have a doctor take a look at my ear. She probed in to have a look and said that my external canal was fine and that if I was having troubles then it had to be something internal. To further diagnose the problem required seeing a specialist who only came during the week. I asked her about diving and after playing charades to explain ‘diving’, about three nurses all at once said, “NO WAY!” I was crushed! Here I had planned my whole adventure around this dive trip to Koh Tao and these ladies were telling me no??! So I walked back to my GH pissed off but made no promises of not diving. I set out to try some local Thai food but was disappointed several times. Therefore I stuck to mostly western food; I laugh because I know people will ask me, “How was the Thai food?!!” All I’ll say is, “Ya, the burgers were great.” After receiving bad news about my ear and tasting some less than scrumptious Thai food, I was grateful to stumble upon a Swensen’s Ice Cream shop. I indulged and my worries about diving melted away like the ice cream in my tummy :) Having seen Bangkok, I really didn’t know what to do with my extra day that I had planned. For those who may travel this way, there’s really no need to come to Bangkok unless you want a cool T-shirt or are passing through. One day max!
It was cool to watch the movie ‘The Beach’ back in Kunming for the movie takes place in Thailand and was partially filmed on Kohsan Road. Having been there, I can now relate more to the movie and understand the perspective for it closely reflected my own experience. They filmed the beach scenes on the Phi Phi islands (Western shores of Thailand) which are suppose to be amazing. But since the movie made the place famous, it’s always crowded with tourists. I decided to skip it this time around and planned to stay a full 9 days on Koh Tao.
I left the next night on an all-night train south to a place called Chumpon. From Chumpon we would catch a short bus ride and then a three hour ferry to Koh Tao. It was there that I would discover a paradise that one would wish to never end…
Our ride to Bangkok would go a little different than I had anticipated. I was picked up from the guest house in an old Toyota car which I thought would take me to the bus station. Instead we picked up three Korean tourists and made the drive to the border in the car. I had no problem with it, just didn’t anticipate a personal driver. Once at the border, several other cars dropped off more tourists. We all huddled together with our pretty red stickers on our shirts indicating that we were headed to the same place. We walked across the border and then gathered with people who had the same color sticker. Our group from the car merged with another group to share a minibus into Bangkok. The minibus driver thought he was Mario Andredi and I swear we hit 100+ miles/hour several times on the main highway into town. But that’s how everybody was driving; we were even being passed! None the less, the high velocity put everybody on edge. After saying a few prayers I sat back and enjoyed the setting sun straight ahead.
We got into Bangkok during traffic hour but were still on time thanks to Jeff Gordon. We dropped a French couple and one other guy off at their hotel before proceeding to the main tourist area around Khaosan Road. When backpacking anywhere, you’re always cognizant of your belongings. I usually carry my pack in my lap for simply not trusting its security under or even on top of any bus, depending on its storage configuration. Since we had a minibus and small group, I had no problem just throwing my bag in the back with everybody else’s. But when we arrived at Khaosan Road I immediately noticed the French guys pack (who we had just dropped off several miles away). When I didn’t see my bag I knew just what had happened. Frenchy took my pack instead of his since they were similar in style. So here I was, stuck on some foreign street, now dark, with some other guy’s bag. A nice Canadian couple and Korean guy who were on our bus waited to help me troubleshoot what to do. Fortunately someone mentioned a police station close by and recommended I go there, if nothing else, to report what had happened. I kept thinking that it was going to be impossible to find this dude who now had my bag. The only info I had was his address in France; no cell phone number, knowledge of itinerary, or any way to get in contact with him other than to bump into him on the street. A nice police officer inside the station helped me try to call the bus service to possibly get some more details. While calling I looked up towards the heavens and asked God for a miracle (since that’s what it was going to take) when all of a sudden Frenchy busted through the doors. I knew since I had his bag that he would be looking for me, but what were the odds that he would think to go to the police station as well! I couldn’t believe it!! Bangkok is no small city. There are at least a hundred different guest houses around Khaosan Road and yet through some quick act of God we found each other and were able to exchange bags. He had been to Khaosan Road before and remembered the police station; what luck. We immediately embraced happy to have our proper possessions and had a beer over the minor incident. What a crazy way to start my Thailand adventure!
After shaking hands and wishing each other well, I set off to choose one of many GH for the next two nights. I visited at least a dozen that were all full before finding a really cheap but OK room a little ways away.
Khaosan Road is a cool strip about half a mile long where you can find an assortment of T-shirts and other goods. The T-shirts are unique, however, for the designs are unlike anything you’ve ever seen. They have some pretty cool retro shirts with Tony the Tiger and Toucan-Sam on them. I picked up a few over the next two days that I really like but the street vendors mostly sell a bunch of junk. There are several bars as well along the road and the place was teeming with tourists. My first night in Bangkok was great… it’s always fun to arrive in some place you’ve never been before and explore around. The following day I did just that.
I visited a cool temple which hosted a ginormous gold Buddha that was lying on its side. I was sick of temples though so I just walked around the city. I found the train station and booked my much anticipated ticket south to Koh Tao, a dive island in the Gulf of Thailand. On my way back I dropped by a hospital to have a doctor take a look at my ear. She probed in to have a look and said that my external canal was fine and that if I was having troubles then it had to be something internal. To further diagnose the problem required seeing a specialist who only came during the week. I asked her about diving and after playing charades to explain ‘diving’, about three nurses all at once said, “NO WAY!” I was crushed! Here I had planned my whole adventure around this dive trip to Koh Tao and these ladies were telling me no??! So I walked back to my GH pissed off but made no promises of not diving. I set out to try some local Thai food but was disappointed several times. Therefore I stuck to mostly western food; I laugh because I know people will ask me, “How was the Thai food?!!” All I’ll say is, “Ya, the burgers were great.” After receiving bad news about my ear and tasting some less than scrumptious Thai food, I was grateful to stumble upon a Swensen’s Ice Cream shop. I indulged and my worries about diving melted away like the ice cream in my tummy :) Having seen Bangkok, I really didn’t know what to do with my extra day that I had planned. For those who may travel this way, there’s really no need to come to Bangkok unless you want a cool T-shirt or are passing through. One day max!
It was cool to watch the movie ‘The Beach’ back in Kunming for the movie takes place in Thailand and was partially filmed on Kohsan Road. Having been there, I can now relate more to the movie and understand the perspective for it closely reflected my own experience. They filmed the beach scenes on the Phi Phi islands (Western shores of Thailand) which are suppose to be amazing. But since the movie made the place famous, it’s always crowded with tourists. I decided to skip it this time around and planned to stay a full 9 days on Koh Tao.
I left the next night on an all-night train south to a place called Chumpon. From Chumpon we would catch a short bus ride and then a three hour ferry to Koh Tao. It was there that I would discover a paradise that one would wish to never end…
Monday, March 1, 2010
SE Asia-Siem Reap, Cambodia
My roommates had done practically the same SE Asia route that I was on (just about a year earlier) and had told me about the poverty in Cambodia. Although I thought I was mentally prepared, my first contact with it was emotionally overwhelming. We were sitting on our bus coming in from Vietnam, waiting in a line to board a ferry in order to cross a river. Looking out the window I could see the filthy, dusty sidewalks and streets lined with children of all ages. Some were completely naked. Some were just missing a shirt. Some were only missing pants and most didn’t have any form of shoes or sandals. They all came up close to our windows holding their hands up in desperation. Their little faces were so innocent and beautiful yet here these kids were trapped in the vicious cycle of poverty. One even held his naked brother, lying lifeless, in his arms offering him up to anyone who might take him to a better place. I was deeply conflicted when a Spaniard kept taking photo after photo of the kids as if we were on an African safari. It’s important to show the world what it’s like here but something just didn’t feel right about the way he was taking his photos. My heart just sank; it is one thing to see commercials’ asking for donations to help these poor kids, but to come face to face with it was emotionally hard. Here I had a grocery bag full of food for lunch and pockets that had more money than these kids had probably ever seen in their short lifetime. Yet how was I to help them? I knew giving food would simply prolong the inevitable and there was nothing I could do in the short period of time I would be in contact with them. The feeling of helplessness weighs deep but I hope to someday return with the ability to do more.
It honestly took a couple hours to shake the funk that that experience had put me in. What partly helped was our bus’s mechanical failure. The sun was setting when we pulled over for what we all thought was just another routine stop. But then when we saw some guy elbow deep in gasoline and oil come from behind our bus, we knew something was up. All of us tourists sort of bonded while sitting around this little shop eating whatever we could find for dinner. The night grew darker and fortunately myself and another tourist carried flashlights that the guy now needed to fix the bus. He was most grateful to have them and I think we saved his butt. We finally got it started and were back on the rode after the mild two hour delay. We got in late, but better late than never. I found a cheap place to lay my head and made arrangements to visit the famous city of Angkor the next day.
Siem Reap is a cool little town with a welcome tourist scene. The main tourist road, Pub Street, hosts numerous western restaurants and glasses of beer for 50 cents; genius. But the main attraction lies a few miles north of town. The following day I rented a nice beach cruiser to ride around Angkor since the temples are widely spread. On the way there I met a nice German guy who was all too willing to share the history of the place as we rode. It was nice to get a little inside scoop since he’d been there the previous four days but after awhile he got on my nerves. I decided to ride the ‘short’ route since I had plans to return the next morning to the rest of it. The first few Wats on my route were spectacular! I didn’t really know what to expect; I’d seen numerous temples before but nothing like these. The first thing that came to mind was Walt Disney’s ‘The Jungle Book’. I swore Mowgli and Baloo were going to pop out and start singing ‘Bare Necessities’ at any moment. The beautiful stone structures are unlike anything else in the world but are slowly crumbling. Presently, anyone can walk through the temples but I predict the sites will soon become like Stonehenge. Where people could once roam through the historical site, they will be roped off to observe the sites from a distance.
Continuing on the cirque, I came to Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom was once the film set of Tomb Raider. It is an incredible temple for the surrounding trees have slowly started taking back over their territory. Pictures are worth a thousand words for this one…
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Siem%20Reap?h=f5e9e5
It was pretty spectacular to see these enormous trees spurting up out of nowhere only to work themselves around stone walls. Roots everywhere shot down through any small crack that they could find in search for soil. This would make a great paintball location but I don’t think the historians would go for it. The most famous of all the Wats is the great Angkor Wat which is the largest religious structure in the world. It was built in the early 12th century and is the best preserved of all the temples. After spending all day cruising through the small loop, I ended up back here for the sunset which was a most special treat. The figures on the walls come to life as the sun casts detailed shadows all over. Tourists are allowed to climb to the top of Angkor Wat to peer out among its courtyards. However, the top is considered holy and therefore requires proper attire. Flip-flops, board shorts, and a T-shirt will get you by but I had a sleeveless shirt on. The lady didn’t want to let me go to the top so I convinced her to let me borrow her shawl to cover my shoulders. She did and so I gave her my Dos Equis hat as collateral which was rather hilarious. I was one of the last ones through Angkor Wat that day and it was special being on such ancient, magnificent, spiritual grounds during the sunset.
I was glowing as I rode back into town. I just took my time without a care in the world thinking of all the desk jobs I was avoiding. I know I’ll end up there someday but for now I’m so fortunate and grateful to be doing what I’m doing. I only regret not having all of my closest friends out here with me.
Stoked on the day I grabbed an awesome dinner and a few beers with a nice guy from Canada. I love sharing my experiences and thoughts with like-minded people who see life the way I do. After dinner he went with his tour group off to some club while I just soaked in the night life on Pub Street. I decided to try a fish foot massage which looked just ridiculous but was actually really awesome. There’s a certain type of guppy that eats your dead skin, so for three bucks I dunked my toes into a fish tank while a bunch of guppies went to town on my feet and lower legs (I hope you’re not eating food while reading this). I giggled for probably a good 10 minutes straight since the experience tickles like none-other. Finally use to it, I just relaxed and had a beer while the lady working there gave me a nice back massage. I highly recommend the fish foot massage to anyone who comes across it!
Afterwards my feet and legs were smooth as silk and I couldn’t believe how feminine I felt. So naturally I did what any manly man would do and ordered up a few rounds of beer to bring back my mojo. While enjoying a few glasses, I noticed a girl not far from where I was sitting who was drinking alone. I asked if she wanted to join (since it seemed no one was coming to join her) but she politely declined. She was a Cambodian girl who spoke very little English but we ended up talking for quite some time about Jesus since she had noticed my cross necklace. She was going through some tough times since her French boyfriend had just broken up with her. It’s funny how God will put you in certain places that are right where you need to be when you least expect it. She eventually opened up a lot to me and I helped her cry and simply listened to her vent. This is exactly why foreigners shouldn’t mess with the local people romantically. She had hopes of marrying this guy and moving out of Cambodia (like a lot of people from third world countries hope for) and was just crushed by the break-up. She was a believer in Jesus and so I tried to shed some positive light into her world but it was very difficult. I at least convinced her to stop drinking her sorrows away and to simply trust that the Lord had a plan for her life. We talked a bit and I tried my best to encourage her. It was getting late (11:30 is late for me) so I parted with the distraught girl but not before making her smile. I hope I was able to bring some inspiration and positive energy into her hopeless, depressed state but God only knows. The lesson learned - you never know when or where you’ll be required to minister or help a stranger in need. And although neither of us spoke each others language (very well at least), we still had a connection through Jesus and were able to communicate on that level. I pray that she’s doing better.
Having seen everything I had wanted to see, I decided to leave the following day without returning to Angkor. Although my time in Cambodia was brief, it was most spectacular. The next time I visit, I hope to be on a more philanthropic adventure where I can visit an orphanage and spend some time with the kids!
It honestly took a couple hours to shake the funk that that experience had put me in. What partly helped was our bus’s mechanical failure. The sun was setting when we pulled over for what we all thought was just another routine stop. But then when we saw some guy elbow deep in gasoline and oil come from behind our bus, we knew something was up. All of us tourists sort of bonded while sitting around this little shop eating whatever we could find for dinner. The night grew darker and fortunately myself and another tourist carried flashlights that the guy now needed to fix the bus. He was most grateful to have them and I think we saved his butt. We finally got it started and were back on the rode after the mild two hour delay. We got in late, but better late than never. I found a cheap place to lay my head and made arrangements to visit the famous city of Angkor the next day.
Siem Reap is a cool little town with a welcome tourist scene. The main tourist road, Pub Street, hosts numerous western restaurants and glasses of beer for 50 cents; genius. But the main attraction lies a few miles north of town. The following day I rented a nice beach cruiser to ride around Angkor since the temples are widely spread. On the way there I met a nice German guy who was all too willing to share the history of the place as we rode. It was nice to get a little inside scoop since he’d been there the previous four days but after awhile he got on my nerves. I decided to ride the ‘short’ route since I had plans to return the next morning to the rest of it. The first few Wats on my route were spectacular! I didn’t really know what to expect; I’d seen numerous temples before but nothing like these. The first thing that came to mind was Walt Disney’s ‘The Jungle Book’. I swore Mowgli and Baloo were going to pop out and start singing ‘Bare Necessities’ at any moment. The beautiful stone structures are unlike anything else in the world but are slowly crumbling. Presently, anyone can walk through the temples but I predict the sites will soon become like Stonehenge. Where people could once roam through the historical site, they will be roped off to observe the sites from a distance.
Continuing on the cirque, I came to Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom was once the film set of Tomb Raider. It is an incredible temple for the surrounding trees have slowly started taking back over their territory. Pictures are worth a thousand words for this one…
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Siem%20Reap?h=f5e9e5
It was pretty spectacular to see these enormous trees spurting up out of nowhere only to work themselves around stone walls. Roots everywhere shot down through any small crack that they could find in search for soil. This would make a great paintball location but I don’t think the historians would go for it. The most famous of all the Wats is the great Angkor Wat which is the largest religious structure in the world. It was built in the early 12th century and is the best preserved of all the temples. After spending all day cruising through the small loop, I ended up back here for the sunset which was a most special treat. The figures on the walls come to life as the sun casts detailed shadows all over. Tourists are allowed to climb to the top of Angkor Wat to peer out among its courtyards. However, the top is considered holy and therefore requires proper attire. Flip-flops, board shorts, and a T-shirt will get you by but I had a sleeveless shirt on. The lady didn’t want to let me go to the top so I convinced her to let me borrow her shawl to cover my shoulders. She did and so I gave her my Dos Equis hat as collateral which was rather hilarious. I was one of the last ones through Angkor Wat that day and it was special being on such ancient, magnificent, spiritual grounds during the sunset.
I was glowing as I rode back into town. I just took my time without a care in the world thinking of all the desk jobs I was avoiding. I know I’ll end up there someday but for now I’m so fortunate and grateful to be doing what I’m doing. I only regret not having all of my closest friends out here with me.
Stoked on the day I grabbed an awesome dinner and a few beers with a nice guy from Canada. I love sharing my experiences and thoughts with like-minded people who see life the way I do. After dinner he went with his tour group off to some club while I just soaked in the night life on Pub Street. I decided to try a fish foot massage which looked just ridiculous but was actually really awesome. There’s a certain type of guppy that eats your dead skin, so for three bucks I dunked my toes into a fish tank while a bunch of guppies went to town on my feet and lower legs (I hope you’re not eating food while reading this). I giggled for probably a good 10 minutes straight since the experience tickles like none-other. Finally use to it, I just relaxed and had a beer while the lady working there gave me a nice back massage. I highly recommend the fish foot massage to anyone who comes across it!
Afterwards my feet and legs were smooth as silk and I couldn’t believe how feminine I felt. So naturally I did what any manly man would do and ordered up a few rounds of beer to bring back my mojo. While enjoying a few glasses, I noticed a girl not far from where I was sitting who was drinking alone. I asked if she wanted to join (since it seemed no one was coming to join her) but she politely declined. She was a Cambodian girl who spoke very little English but we ended up talking for quite some time about Jesus since she had noticed my cross necklace. She was going through some tough times since her French boyfriend had just broken up with her. It’s funny how God will put you in certain places that are right where you need to be when you least expect it. She eventually opened up a lot to me and I helped her cry and simply listened to her vent. This is exactly why foreigners shouldn’t mess with the local people romantically. She had hopes of marrying this guy and moving out of Cambodia (like a lot of people from third world countries hope for) and was just crushed by the break-up. She was a believer in Jesus and so I tried to shed some positive light into her world but it was very difficult. I at least convinced her to stop drinking her sorrows away and to simply trust that the Lord had a plan for her life. We talked a bit and I tried my best to encourage her. It was getting late (11:30 is late for me) so I parted with the distraught girl but not before making her smile. I hope I was able to bring some inspiration and positive energy into her hopeless, depressed state but God only knows. The lesson learned - you never know when or where you’ll be required to minister or help a stranger in need. And although neither of us spoke each others language (very well at least), we still had a connection through Jesus and were able to communicate on that level. I pray that she’s doing better.
Having seen everything I had wanted to see, I decided to leave the following day without returning to Angkor. Although my time in Cambodia was brief, it was most spectacular. The next time I visit, I hope to be on a more philanthropic adventure where I can visit an orphanage and spend some time with the kids!
Saturday, February 27, 2010
SE Asia-Saigon, Vietnam
After returning from my two week trip around China, I spent only three days back in Kunming before it was time to head out for another adventure. I finally got my passport back from the university where I’ll be teaching, complete with residence permit and all. So off I went on a train for Hong Kong where I would catch a United Airlines flight down to Ho Chi Minh City (thanks Dad!). Having grown up flying quite frequently it was nice to be back at an airport with some destination in mind. I made all of the connections from the Guangzhou train terminal, crossing the border, to HK International Airport with plenty of time to spare. I spent that time roaming through various media (magazines, newspaper, etc.) that China deprives us of and it was nice to be back in a ‘normal’ society. I also talked with a nice older gentleman from New Zealand who, despite being in his 80’s, was a downhill ski racer. He was a fulfillment of the phrase, “you’re never too old to start anything,” and an inspiration to living life to the fullest. We boarded the plane and it was nice to be back in the comforts of United Business Class which, internationally, is quite accommodating. It only took two hours to reach Saigon, but I savored every minute sipping on wine and enjoying the chocolates I had purchased in the terminal. I caught a ride into town with the flight crew and set off to find a cheap hostel for the next few nights. My adventure had begun. I had a month of travel ahead and was excited to see what life might bring my way!
My main purpose for going to Saigon was to visit all of the historical sites regarding the war. First on that list were the Cu Chi tunnels. Cu Chi is a city about 45 minutes outside of Saigon where the Vietnamese had built an elaborate network of tunnels that became infamous during the Vietnam War. Their ability to construct such a system was pretty remarkable and made our efforts there that much more difficult. It was crazy to be standing in a place where some 40 years ago men my age were holding AK-47’s creeping through a war-torn jungle. It was cool to crawl into the tiny, tiny secret holes (which even though are small, they’ve actually widened them for us corn-fed type) and walk through the tunnels underground. The whole place there is extremely biased and dish out a lot of propaganda. Our guide kept saying how the VC soldiers lived such a ‘hard life, hard life’. No doubt it was hard. Who wants to live like a mole, underground eating tapioca for all ones’ meals; however, their resilience paid off in the end at our loss.
We walked around checking out some of the traps that were used to catch American soldiers and then, all of a sudden, “Bam, bam, bam, bam!!!” My first thought was, “Holy crap! This war is still going on! Quick, hit the deck!!!” But then wait… no, it was just the firing range. The first shots we heard startled everyone which was kind of funny. The gun shots were extremely loud as we approached the range for our turn to give them a shot (pun intended, I know I’m not funny but work with me). They have old AK-47s, M-30’s, M-60’s, and some other crazy guns that tourists can give a try at shooting. The bullets were rather expensive to buy but worth it for a one time chance to shoot an AK-47 (I don’t plan on joining the military anytime soon). A handful from our group tried it out, plugging our ears as we approached the weapon range. They have ear-protectors but they are really crappy. I shot my rounds and then took pictures for another guy. Afterwards our ears were ringing and the man I took pictures for was seriously concerned for his ears. I just sort of shrugged it off having survived loud nights at clubs and what-not before. However, I think I’ve sustained permanent, although minor, hearing loss in my left ear. It rang for probably a week straight before returning back to normal (more on my ear in a later blog).
On our way back from the tunnels, the bus dropped a few of us off who wanted to go to the War Remnants Museum. The museum contains several old war-craft out in its front lawn including the 1H-Huey, a well recognized helicopter we used during the war. It takes a strong stomach to walk through the museum for it contains a whole floor devoted to telling the story of Agent Orange, the most horrific chemical substance known to man. Some of the pictures and stories seen here are just too much to handle. Unfortunately, you can still see the effects of the nasty chemical around Vietnam today. The deformities that occur are quite horrendous and I was embarrassed to claim I was an American when other foreigners asked. We basically used Vietnam as a testing ground for chemical warfare. I knew that all of the info I was observing was biased, but even still… we all have common grounds of being human and some of our tactics there were simply inhumane.
The following day I had a date with the US Embassy to add pages to my passport. While waiting my turn, I helped a Vietnamese woman who was trying to figure out her husbands US visa application status. She lived in FL and had been waiting a year for her husband to get a visa to join her. She sought my help claiming that her ‘people’ were crooks and wouldn’t help her. She told me that a ‘white skin’ was more reliable and willing to help (which I couldn’t argue, I wanted to help her if I could). It was sad to hear her say such things about her home country but that’s the nature of the beast. Another man joined our conversation sharing that he had a friend who had been waiting two years for his US visa. Two years!!! I got my Vietnamese visa in about 6 hours. Could you imagine being separated from your loved ones for such time while waiting on paperwork and approval?
Living outside of the US changes your global perspective tremendously. No doubt our nation has some large issues that need to be taken care of and by no means is our society perfect. But let me tell you this; after meeting numerous people from all sides of the globe, we may be one of the most envied countries in the world. Almost every Asian I’ve met has told me how much they want to visit, study in, or move to the US. All the Europeans I’ve met have either been to the US and have loved it, or desperately want to visit. I thank God for being one of the fortunate ones to have grown up in such a nation. Our language is the basis that all other nations use to communicate with. Our currency is the standard by which all other currencies are compared (even in economic recession). The values and freedoms for which our nation was founded are those that every other country desires. Our passport is like a get-in-free card to almost anywhere in the world and our standard of living is something not to be taken for granted. You can’t say it any better than God bless America!
I digress; after handling my passport, I visited the Reunification Palace where Communist tanks broke down the gate in 1973 to topple the last glimmer of Democratic hope in Vietnam. Learning about such important events in history is one thing, but to then visit them in person and obtain a deeper understanding of such places and events is personally rewarding. I enjoy history and am grateful of having this opportunity.
Finally, the timing was fortunate for me to be in Saigon for my cousin, Phil, was also in the city. He is living in a city further to the north in Vietnam but was down in Saigon on business. It was nice to see a familiar face and even better that it was family. Phil and I hung out with his colleague and had a few beers catching up while enjoying the frenzy that Saigon is. Vietnam is an awesome country that is lined with a beautiful coast. Though its history is filled with struggle, I think there is a bright future for this beautiful place.
After soaking in Saigon for all it was worth, it was time to move on to my next destination, Siem Reap, Cambodia…
Pictures: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Saigon?h=ddfbe6
My main purpose for going to Saigon was to visit all of the historical sites regarding the war. First on that list were the Cu Chi tunnels. Cu Chi is a city about 45 minutes outside of Saigon where the Vietnamese had built an elaborate network of tunnels that became infamous during the Vietnam War. Their ability to construct such a system was pretty remarkable and made our efforts there that much more difficult. It was crazy to be standing in a place where some 40 years ago men my age were holding AK-47’s creeping through a war-torn jungle. It was cool to crawl into the tiny, tiny secret holes (which even though are small, they’ve actually widened them for us corn-fed type) and walk through the tunnels underground. The whole place there is extremely biased and dish out a lot of propaganda. Our guide kept saying how the VC soldiers lived such a ‘hard life, hard life’. No doubt it was hard. Who wants to live like a mole, underground eating tapioca for all ones’ meals; however, their resilience paid off in the end at our loss.
We walked around checking out some of the traps that were used to catch American soldiers and then, all of a sudden, “Bam, bam, bam, bam!!!” My first thought was, “Holy crap! This war is still going on! Quick, hit the deck!!!” But then wait… no, it was just the firing range. The first shots we heard startled everyone which was kind of funny. The gun shots were extremely loud as we approached the range for our turn to give them a shot (pun intended, I know I’m not funny but work with me). They have old AK-47s, M-30’s, M-60’s, and some other crazy guns that tourists can give a try at shooting. The bullets were rather expensive to buy but worth it for a one time chance to shoot an AK-47 (I don’t plan on joining the military anytime soon). A handful from our group tried it out, plugging our ears as we approached the weapon range. They have ear-protectors but they are really crappy. I shot my rounds and then took pictures for another guy. Afterwards our ears were ringing and the man I took pictures for was seriously concerned for his ears. I just sort of shrugged it off having survived loud nights at clubs and what-not before. However, I think I’ve sustained permanent, although minor, hearing loss in my left ear. It rang for probably a week straight before returning back to normal (more on my ear in a later blog).
On our way back from the tunnels, the bus dropped a few of us off who wanted to go to the War Remnants Museum. The museum contains several old war-craft out in its front lawn including the 1H-Huey, a well recognized helicopter we used during the war. It takes a strong stomach to walk through the museum for it contains a whole floor devoted to telling the story of Agent Orange, the most horrific chemical substance known to man. Some of the pictures and stories seen here are just too much to handle. Unfortunately, you can still see the effects of the nasty chemical around Vietnam today. The deformities that occur are quite horrendous and I was embarrassed to claim I was an American when other foreigners asked. We basically used Vietnam as a testing ground for chemical warfare. I knew that all of the info I was observing was biased, but even still… we all have common grounds of being human and some of our tactics there were simply inhumane.
The following day I had a date with the US Embassy to add pages to my passport. While waiting my turn, I helped a Vietnamese woman who was trying to figure out her husbands US visa application status. She lived in FL and had been waiting a year for her husband to get a visa to join her. She sought my help claiming that her ‘people’ were crooks and wouldn’t help her. She told me that a ‘white skin’ was more reliable and willing to help (which I couldn’t argue, I wanted to help her if I could). It was sad to hear her say such things about her home country but that’s the nature of the beast. Another man joined our conversation sharing that he had a friend who had been waiting two years for his US visa. Two years!!! I got my Vietnamese visa in about 6 hours. Could you imagine being separated from your loved ones for such time while waiting on paperwork and approval?
Living outside of the US changes your global perspective tremendously. No doubt our nation has some large issues that need to be taken care of and by no means is our society perfect. But let me tell you this; after meeting numerous people from all sides of the globe, we may be one of the most envied countries in the world. Almost every Asian I’ve met has told me how much they want to visit, study in, or move to the US. All the Europeans I’ve met have either been to the US and have loved it, or desperately want to visit. I thank God for being one of the fortunate ones to have grown up in such a nation. Our language is the basis that all other nations use to communicate with. Our currency is the standard by which all other currencies are compared (even in economic recession). The values and freedoms for which our nation was founded are those that every other country desires. Our passport is like a get-in-free card to almost anywhere in the world and our standard of living is something not to be taken for granted. You can’t say it any better than God bless America!
I digress; after handling my passport, I visited the Reunification Palace where Communist tanks broke down the gate in 1973 to topple the last glimmer of Democratic hope in Vietnam. Learning about such important events in history is one thing, but to then visit them in person and obtain a deeper understanding of such places and events is personally rewarding. I enjoy history and am grateful of having this opportunity.
Finally, the timing was fortunate for me to be in Saigon for my cousin, Phil, was also in the city. He is living in a city further to the north in Vietnam but was down in Saigon on business. It was nice to see a familiar face and even better that it was family. Phil and I hung out with his colleague and had a few beers catching up while enjoying the frenzy that Saigon is. Vietnam is an awesome country that is lined with a beautiful coast. Though its history is filled with struggle, I think there is a bright future for this beautiful place.
After soaking in Saigon for all it was worth, it was time to move on to my next destination, Siem Reap, Cambodia…
Pictures: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Saigon?h=ddfbe6
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Two Weeks-Seven Cities
Two weeks, seven cities…
Sorry it’s been so long for those who actually read this. My head’s been in the clouds the last two weeks, literally. I’m only going to touch on a few highlights from the trip since I know that if you’re anything like me, a basic summary will do. Since I enjoy writing in detail to paint the best picture for you, thus making my blogs longer, you may check out my pictures at the following links:
Dali: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Dali?h=44b288
Zhongdian/Deqin: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Zhongdian-Deqin?h=0a995e
Chengdu/Leshan: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Chengdu-Leshan?h=5ea6c8
Emeishan: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Emei%20Shan?h=968376
The first city on my list was one I had passed by on the way to Lijiang and the Tiger Leaping Gorge back in early December. When I had passed through Dali the first time, I couldn’t believe how much it had resembled Denver with the mountains and Erhai Lake. I knew I had to go back. I stayed in Dali’s old town which is halfway up the western bank of Erhai Lake, just at the foot of the Cangshan Mountains. I met some nice people there, particularly the Chinese owner of the 3-month old hostel I stayed at who had the cutest Golden Retriever, Dumbo. I enjoyed the hike around the mountains and the views that came with it; though my idea of beauty would change as I progress to my next two destinations.
I took an overnight bus to Zhongdian which has become a popular destination since the Chinese renamed the surrounded county to Shangri-la. Shangri-la is a fictional place described as a Himalayan mountain utopia that some British guy wrote about in the novel Lost Horizon back in 1933. The name change was done at an attempt to attract tourists to the city even though many places in the Himalayan region compete for the actual title.
I got in early and watched the sunrise on a most beautiful day. The sky was crystal clear blue and I was pumped to be in this pristine mountainous region. I ended up hiking up a mountain with an American who had been living there for some time. The hike was very pleasant and the views were tremendous! At the top of the mountain I could see all the way from the peaks of Lijiang to the south to Meleishan in the north. I would be headed to the city of Deqin the next day which is in the next valley over from Meleishan. It was cool to see the distance between the cities first hand and not just off of a map.
The city of Zhongdian is very peaceful and lies in a quiet valley. Unlike most Chinese cities, Zhongdian has open fields that stretch along the western mountain range. It is a beautiful place and offers a pleasant retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. I enjoyed the openness and seclusion that Zhongdian provides. The farming lifestyle is a quiet and peaceful one, and the people tend to be more laid back as well. I enjoyed my time there and was happy to see such a cool town.
I caught an early bus to make the 6-hour bus ride to Deqin. The drive itself is worth the trek to Deqin; even though it’s not geographically far away, you need the six hours to wind your way through numerous switchbacks as you cross over two main mountain passes. The drive was incredible as our bus ripped around corners that lacked guardrails; nothing but steep cliffs and a treacherous fate if one were to go over the edge. The bus drivers don’t seem too realize the potential hazard for they hardly slow down and even pass people around blind curves! They just honk and hope no one is coming on the other side, simply mad! As we came over the last pass, the Meleishan peak greeted us with a tip of its brimming white cap. The mountain is a magnificent sight that resembles the Matterhorn. I was stoked!
I got checked into the hostel and was informed that there was a Parisian girl who wanted to go to the Mingyong Glacier but needed somebody to split the cab with since it was an hour away. I would later meet her and we made plans to go the next day to hike up to the glacier. In the mean time I decided to set out on foot towards a good monastery that was some 6 miles up the windy road. I didn’t feel like forking out the money for a taxi and had the time so I figured I’d just walk. While walking I realized that this was silly; there were so many cars traveling this road (since there’s only one road snaking through these mountains) so I decided to stick out my thumb for the first time in my life. I hitched my way a good 5 miles with 3 random Chinese dudes and hiked the rest of the way to the place. I actually never found the monastery since it was just a tiny thing but I did find a beautiful, large veranda to take pictures of the mountain range as the sun was setting. Apparently Feilaisi (the name of the monastery) is also the name of the viewing veranda so that’s why people kept pointing me in the ‘wrong’ direction. It was truly an incredible view. After I bit I hitched my way back and prepared for the hike to the glacier the next day. Deqin is a neat place since 80% of its inhabitants are Tibetan. The Tibetan culture to China is sort of like the Native Indian culture to the US. They are beautiful people with a rich heritage. They are very spiritual and have a strong connection with nature which is something I truly value and appreciated.
The next morning we were up and out early. Marie was a sweet lady from Paris who was simply happy to be alive (I would find out later she meant it quite literally). We started off the hike together but she wanted to take her time so I went ahead. It was another picture perfect day as I hiked up a phenomenal trail. You can ride a donkey to the top for a few bucks so the trail is basically a dirt path with manure everywhere. It was nice to be back in nature, hiking among the ‘foothills’ of the Himalayas. I caught up and passed several Chinese people and finally reached the top of the trail which is the base of the glacier. We all cheered at for having finally made it (though only a two hour hike). There are a few huts and places to eat and relax there. The trail continues and turns into stairs that were put in for tourists to reach a viewing platform halfway up the glacier. So up we climbed. I was able to hang out at the top taking in the beauty while waiting for Marie. She finally made it but was struggling with the altitude (it also could have been the pack of cigarettes she smoked in the taxi on the way over!). The Mingyong Glacier is the world’s lowest altitude glacier. Sometimes you can hear the cracking and moving of the glacier as gravity slowly pushes it downward. I had heard it while hiking up but didn’t while I was actually up there. It simply sounds like thunder. We took pictures and soaked in some rays enjoying every bit of the day.
On the way back down Marie shared with me how she had had a brain tumor and had gone through chemotherapy; that rocked my world. She’s in her early 30’s and it made me realize how precious life is. She told me how she used to barely have enough strength to get out of bed to buy groceries and was worried she’d never travel again. That only confirmed that I had made the right decision to move here to China and do the things I’m doing. We’re only here for so long and who knows when God will come-a-callin’! She’s since overcome the tumor but returns every 6 months for routine check-ups. How blessed we are to have hiked such a beautiful place!
From Deqin I was trying to go to Chengdu in northern Sichuan. Unfortunately, China doesn’t have the infrastructure between the two cities due to the mountains so I had to spend a full day of travel all the way back to Lijiang in the south. I then had to wait 24 hours for the next over-night bus to Chengdu; needless to say, it took a little while (54 hours). I finally got into Chengdu and was less than ecstatic. After being in such pleasant, small-town villages in the pristine mountains of Yunnan, I had arrived back into a bustling, polluted city. It took us an hour just to get across downtown to the bus station because the traffic was so bad! I would only stay one night here, thank goodness. The morning I left, I met three Chinese girls who were headed the same place I was, the Panda Reserve. We all split a cab and walked around checking out all the different Panda exhibits. They are amazing creatures that seem so playful and friendly. Although you can see Panda’s in various zoos in the US, it was cool to see them on their home turf, their place of origin. From there, we split a cab back and I hopped on a bus to Leshan. The buses usually play some sort of movie on longer trips. Usually the movies are some low-budget, Chinese, kung-fu flicks that are horrible and in Mandarin. However this bus ride they played the Pirates of the Caribbean and in English! I couldn’t believe it! I was stoked on the movie and happy to be leaving the city.
I was only passing through Leshan to see the Giant Buddha, the world’s largest statue. I got to the park and went straight for it. The Giant Buddha stands 77 meters tall and is an incredible spectacle. His head reminded me of Mt. Rushmore; I think it would be a great addition right between Lincoln and Teddy. The park that the Giant Buddha lies in is really cool and does a good job preserving the ancient Chinese cultural feel. It was very jungley with pagodas and cool scenes everywhere. After two hours in the park I headed back to the bus station to continue on to Emei where I would stay for the night.
The city of Emei lies at the base of Mt. Emei. Mt. Emei is the largest of the 4 Sacred Buddhist Mountains reaching 10,167 feet at its peak. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site (like the Stone Forest I went to in Kunming) and offers incredible views from the top. All kinds of Chinese tourist come here to climb the peak (or take the modern bus and cable car to the top) and pay homage, sort of like Mecca. After speaking with a couple of nice guys from Cali who had just gotten down from the mountain, I decided to take three days to hike it instead of just two for I would be hiking the long route. They were very nice and gave me all kinds of good info. I loaded up with food supplies, got my crampons (see picture of my shoe in the snow) from the hostel, and was set to go!
The next morning I was up for breakfast early but due to slow service didn’t get out until 9am. There was a group of three from Sweden, Germany, and Korea who were setting out as well but were going a different route. We all left the hostel and jokingly said, “Race ya to the top!” since they were going a shorter route. The first 3 hours of the hike were beautiful. The whole trail is paved and with steps so it’s and easy go. I climbed up and down through the dense jungle. It was humid and foggy which added to the splendor of the hike. It was nice for I found myself pretty much alone the first three hours before hitting a major cross point among the trails. Once there I ran into all the Chinese tourists but what can one do? From the Qinyin Pavilion I continued on the trail which leads up a beautiful river canyon. Eventually you come to the ‘monkey zone’ where numerous monkeys, who are absolutely fearless of people, take food offerings and entertain hikers. They also tend to steal things if you let them and will grab you any chance they get. I had bought a bamboo hiking stick (10 cents) which would come in handy with the monkeys. They try to grab the stick and run up on you but if you hold your ground and fight back, they fold like a lawn chair. They’re feisty little guys though. I watched one climb onto the back of this one Chinese guy who had no clue what to do. Another ran up to a Chinese tourist and, like a small child, was grabbing upward at his shirt as if he wanted to be lifted up. It was quite hilarious. I passed the monkeys and forged on. I heard fast foot-steps and soon had to jump out of the way as two men carrying another man in a shoulder rickshaw like thing come zooming down the hill. Apparently you can pay these guys to carry you through the lower elevation trails. I thought it was hilarious to see, I can’t imagine doing that for a job.
I came to the monastery where the boys from Cali had stayed their first night but it was only 2pm. So I kept going while I had the daylight. Higher and higher I climbed as I passed several Chinese who struggled with the altitude. Some tried to keep up with me but I was on a mission and didn’t mind the peacefulness of being alone. At one point I felt like Frodo Baggins crawling up the backside of Mordor since the trail was so windy and steep. With the dense forest and foggy atmosphere, it even looked like Mordor! I would come up on a monastery, look at my watch and map, and keep going as I still had daylight. As I climbed higher, the temperature dropped. Eventually you notice the ice on the trees and leaves and then you realize the snow and ice are on the trail; that’s where the crampons come in. They’re basically metal spikes that you tie around your shoes and actually work really well. I eventually set my sights on Leidongping, the place where the bus drops you off, and decided I could make it. I eventually ran into a nice young Chinese couple and hiked the final two hours with them. They set a good pace and I had slowed down by this point, some 8 hours from when I started (they had actually started one hour ahead of me and went the same route). We finally reached Leidongping (9:45 minutes total hiking) with daylight left and I was stoked to have come so far. It would only be another two more hours to the top the next morning. I split a room with the nice couple to make it more cost efficient since the higher you go on the mountain the pricier things get. I didn’t think I’d make it so far and realized I could have done the hike in only two days but had already purchased my train ticket back to Kunming. With only two hours left to hike, I figured why not try to make the sunrise the next morning and have two chances to see it than just one. It’s a gamble anyway since you never know if it will be foggy on top or not. The boys from Cali hadn’t seen it due to fog and since I’d gone so far, I figured I’d better give myself two chances.
The next morning we were out by 6:15 in the freezing cold morning that was dense with fog. I wasn’t sure if we’d get to see the sunrise. We broke out flashlights and continued on upwards taking periodic rests. Eventually I noticed a star shimmering in the distance through the forest and realized we had broken the cloud level! It was clear on top!! At that point my adrenaline started pumping for I knew we had time to make the sunrise and that it would be a good one. It was be a race between us and the sun to see who would peak first! I pushed my new friends and encouraged them on. We finally reached the Golden Peak and just in time! There were several people already there jumping up and down, partially anxious to see the sunrise and partially trying to stay warm against the brisk wind. I couldn’t believe my eyes from the top; nothing but a sea of white, beautiful clouds with a crimson horizon as the sun woke up. The rock we were standing on seemed to be floating on the puffy white clouds. It was an incredible, heavy experience to walk among the heavens. The sun rose up and everyone cheered! What an incredible sight. Total hiking time: 11 hours 30 minutes. My legs were sore, my feet were aching, I was freezing cold, and I had the biggest smile on my face for I was gazing at one of nature’s finest wonders. I was 10,000 feet in the air but my spirit soared even higher. On the top of the mountain there’s a monastery and the gaudiest golden statue of some Buddhist deity. As a Christian I laughed as I thought about worshiping false idols as the Chinese went in to pray. If God ever strikes down all the idols of the world down, I should think that this would be first since it’s so close to heaven.
I walked around taking in every sight and appreciating every breath of fresh air that filled my lungs; it felt great to be alive! I ran into the three hikers from Sweden, Germany and Korea that I had met at the bottom and we enjoyed a nice coffee together. The German and I decided to set out on a little adventure to the other peak (which is the actually summit) that is across the way. The only way in which you are to get there is by a monorail that was at the time broken. We said screw it, we’ve come too far. So we hiked on the actual rail itself over to the other side. It was nice to get away from all the tourists and to enjoy the views from the other side. It is a magnificent place where you truly feel divine as you look out at the world from such heights. We took some pics and then headed back along the rail. It’s always good to push yourself and to take small risks from time to time. The rail gets 30+ feet above the ground at two different points which was both fun but also nerve wrecking. We fortunately made it across safely though and I was happy to have challenged myself for the day.
I spent the rest of the day hanging out up top, taking pictures with random Chinese tourists who love Americans, and contemplating life. I found a guest-place for the night that was a little hike downwards but more cost efficient. As the day drew to an end, I watched the sunset and realized how blessed my life really is. I have good health, loving family and friends, and have the ability to travel and enjoy life. One couldn’t ask for much more.
The next morning I would wake up early again and do the same routine. Though this time I made a point to arrive even earlier to see the stars before the sun gobbled them up. I was the first one to the peak at 6:30am and enjoyed the solitude as I gazed into the heavens. I saw several shooting stars and satellites and enjoyed time alone among the heavens. Man has made this place spiritual with all the Buddhist shrines and what-not, but this place is spiritual by nature. This place would make any atheist reconsider their spiritual views. For me, it was the perfect place to talk to God. I had about 30 minutes alone with Him before the first trekkers arrived. I soaked up every minute of it. This day the skies were clearer and you could see the lights from Emei city some 7,500 feet below. It was like the view out of an airplane. The second morning was even colder as the frost from my breath created an icicle mustache. I was tired and couldn’t bear the cold (plus I had already seen the place) so after the sun rose I split.
The walk back down to Leidongping was twice as fast and twice as fun. Half of the stair case is covered with snow and ice and the other half has been cleared for tourists. With the crampons, you can sort of make a controlled effort to slide down the icy side, almost as if you were skiing. It was really fun and made the trip a lot quicker. By the time I reached Leidongping, my legs were shot, feet aching, and I was mentally tired. I decided to take the bus back down to the hostel (I also didn’t want to miss my train). What an adventure though. I had climbed some 2,500 vertical meters over 30+ km and had conquered the great Emeishan. This was one adventure I’ll never forget.
On the 18-hour train ride back, I had plenty of time to reflect. The only thing that was missing from the whole trip was my friends and family. You can be anywhere in the world doing practically anything you love to do, but if you’re not around the ones you love most, life is meaningless. I miss you all; especially those who are reading this because that means you read the entire thing and care about me :). We’ll see what the future holds, but for now I believe I will be returning stateside (perhaps for good) at the end of the summer.
I will be going on another three week adventure south soon. Expect another blog post from me sometime early March.
Cheers!
Sorry it’s been so long for those who actually read this. My head’s been in the clouds the last two weeks, literally. I’m only going to touch on a few highlights from the trip since I know that if you’re anything like me, a basic summary will do. Since I enjoy writing in detail to paint the best picture for you, thus making my blogs longer, you may check out my pictures at the following links:
Dali: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Dali?h=44b288
Zhongdian/Deqin: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Zhongdian-Deqin?h=0a995e
Chengdu/Leshan: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Chengdu-Leshan?h=5ea6c8
Emeishan: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Emei%20Shan?h=968376
The first city on my list was one I had passed by on the way to Lijiang and the Tiger Leaping Gorge back in early December. When I had passed through Dali the first time, I couldn’t believe how much it had resembled Denver with the mountains and Erhai Lake. I knew I had to go back. I stayed in Dali’s old town which is halfway up the western bank of Erhai Lake, just at the foot of the Cangshan Mountains. I met some nice people there, particularly the Chinese owner of the 3-month old hostel I stayed at who had the cutest Golden Retriever, Dumbo. I enjoyed the hike around the mountains and the views that came with it; though my idea of beauty would change as I progress to my next two destinations.
I took an overnight bus to Zhongdian which has become a popular destination since the Chinese renamed the surrounded county to Shangri-la. Shangri-la is a fictional place described as a Himalayan mountain utopia that some British guy wrote about in the novel Lost Horizon back in 1933. The name change was done at an attempt to attract tourists to the city even though many places in the Himalayan region compete for the actual title.
I got in early and watched the sunrise on a most beautiful day. The sky was crystal clear blue and I was pumped to be in this pristine mountainous region. I ended up hiking up a mountain with an American who had been living there for some time. The hike was very pleasant and the views were tremendous! At the top of the mountain I could see all the way from the peaks of Lijiang to the south to Meleishan in the north. I would be headed to the city of Deqin the next day which is in the next valley over from Meleishan. It was cool to see the distance between the cities first hand and not just off of a map.
The city of Zhongdian is very peaceful and lies in a quiet valley. Unlike most Chinese cities, Zhongdian has open fields that stretch along the western mountain range. It is a beautiful place and offers a pleasant retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. I enjoyed the openness and seclusion that Zhongdian provides. The farming lifestyle is a quiet and peaceful one, and the people tend to be more laid back as well. I enjoyed my time there and was happy to see such a cool town.
I caught an early bus to make the 6-hour bus ride to Deqin. The drive itself is worth the trek to Deqin; even though it’s not geographically far away, you need the six hours to wind your way through numerous switchbacks as you cross over two main mountain passes. The drive was incredible as our bus ripped around corners that lacked guardrails; nothing but steep cliffs and a treacherous fate if one were to go over the edge. The bus drivers don’t seem too realize the potential hazard for they hardly slow down and even pass people around blind curves! They just honk and hope no one is coming on the other side, simply mad! As we came over the last pass, the Meleishan peak greeted us with a tip of its brimming white cap. The mountain is a magnificent sight that resembles the Matterhorn. I was stoked!
I got checked into the hostel and was informed that there was a Parisian girl who wanted to go to the Mingyong Glacier but needed somebody to split the cab with since it was an hour away. I would later meet her and we made plans to go the next day to hike up to the glacier. In the mean time I decided to set out on foot towards a good monastery that was some 6 miles up the windy road. I didn’t feel like forking out the money for a taxi and had the time so I figured I’d just walk. While walking I realized that this was silly; there were so many cars traveling this road (since there’s only one road snaking through these mountains) so I decided to stick out my thumb for the first time in my life. I hitched my way a good 5 miles with 3 random Chinese dudes and hiked the rest of the way to the place. I actually never found the monastery since it was just a tiny thing but I did find a beautiful, large veranda to take pictures of the mountain range as the sun was setting. Apparently Feilaisi (the name of the monastery) is also the name of the viewing veranda so that’s why people kept pointing me in the ‘wrong’ direction. It was truly an incredible view. After I bit I hitched my way back and prepared for the hike to the glacier the next day. Deqin is a neat place since 80% of its inhabitants are Tibetan. The Tibetan culture to China is sort of like the Native Indian culture to the US. They are beautiful people with a rich heritage. They are very spiritual and have a strong connection with nature which is something I truly value and appreciated.
The next morning we were up and out early. Marie was a sweet lady from Paris who was simply happy to be alive (I would find out later she meant it quite literally). We started off the hike together but she wanted to take her time so I went ahead. It was another picture perfect day as I hiked up a phenomenal trail. You can ride a donkey to the top for a few bucks so the trail is basically a dirt path with manure everywhere. It was nice to be back in nature, hiking among the ‘foothills’ of the Himalayas. I caught up and passed several Chinese people and finally reached the top of the trail which is the base of the glacier. We all cheered at for having finally made it (though only a two hour hike). There are a few huts and places to eat and relax there. The trail continues and turns into stairs that were put in for tourists to reach a viewing platform halfway up the glacier. So up we climbed. I was able to hang out at the top taking in the beauty while waiting for Marie. She finally made it but was struggling with the altitude (it also could have been the pack of cigarettes she smoked in the taxi on the way over!). The Mingyong Glacier is the world’s lowest altitude glacier. Sometimes you can hear the cracking and moving of the glacier as gravity slowly pushes it downward. I had heard it while hiking up but didn’t while I was actually up there. It simply sounds like thunder. We took pictures and soaked in some rays enjoying every bit of the day.
On the way back down Marie shared with me how she had had a brain tumor and had gone through chemotherapy; that rocked my world. She’s in her early 30’s and it made me realize how precious life is. She told me how she used to barely have enough strength to get out of bed to buy groceries and was worried she’d never travel again. That only confirmed that I had made the right decision to move here to China and do the things I’m doing. We’re only here for so long and who knows when God will come-a-callin’! She’s since overcome the tumor but returns every 6 months for routine check-ups. How blessed we are to have hiked such a beautiful place!
From Deqin I was trying to go to Chengdu in northern Sichuan. Unfortunately, China doesn’t have the infrastructure between the two cities due to the mountains so I had to spend a full day of travel all the way back to Lijiang in the south. I then had to wait 24 hours for the next over-night bus to Chengdu; needless to say, it took a little while (54 hours). I finally got into Chengdu and was less than ecstatic. After being in such pleasant, small-town villages in the pristine mountains of Yunnan, I had arrived back into a bustling, polluted city. It took us an hour just to get across downtown to the bus station because the traffic was so bad! I would only stay one night here, thank goodness. The morning I left, I met three Chinese girls who were headed the same place I was, the Panda Reserve. We all split a cab and walked around checking out all the different Panda exhibits. They are amazing creatures that seem so playful and friendly. Although you can see Panda’s in various zoos in the US, it was cool to see them on their home turf, their place of origin. From there, we split a cab back and I hopped on a bus to Leshan. The buses usually play some sort of movie on longer trips. Usually the movies are some low-budget, Chinese, kung-fu flicks that are horrible and in Mandarin. However this bus ride they played the Pirates of the Caribbean and in English! I couldn’t believe it! I was stoked on the movie and happy to be leaving the city.
I was only passing through Leshan to see the Giant Buddha, the world’s largest statue. I got to the park and went straight for it. The Giant Buddha stands 77 meters tall and is an incredible spectacle. His head reminded me of Mt. Rushmore; I think it would be a great addition right between Lincoln and Teddy. The park that the Giant Buddha lies in is really cool and does a good job preserving the ancient Chinese cultural feel. It was very jungley with pagodas and cool scenes everywhere. After two hours in the park I headed back to the bus station to continue on to Emei where I would stay for the night.
The city of Emei lies at the base of Mt. Emei. Mt. Emei is the largest of the 4 Sacred Buddhist Mountains reaching 10,167 feet at its peak. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site (like the Stone Forest I went to in Kunming) and offers incredible views from the top. All kinds of Chinese tourist come here to climb the peak (or take the modern bus and cable car to the top) and pay homage, sort of like Mecca. After speaking with a couple of nice guys from Cali who had just gotten down from the mountain, I decided to take three days to hike it instead of just two for I would be hiking the long route. They were very nice and gave me all kinds of good info. I loaded up with food supplies, got my crampons (see picture of my shoe in the snow) from the hostel, and was set to go!
The next morning I was up for breakfast early but due to slow service didn’t get out until 9am. There was a group of three from Sweden, Germany, and Korea who were setting out as well but were going a different route. We all left the hostel and jokingly said, “Race ya to the top!” since they were going a shorter route. The first 3 hours of the hike were beautiful. The whole trail is paved and with steps so it’s and easy go. I climbed up and down through the dense jungle. It was humid and foggy which added to the splendor of the hike. It was nice for I found myself pretty much alone the first three hours before hitting a major cross point among the trails. Once there I ran into all the Chinese tourists but what can one do? From the Qinyin Pavilion I continued on the trail which leads up a beautiful river canyon. Eventually you come to the ‘monkey zone’ where numerous monkeys, who are absolutely fearless of people, take food offerings and entertain hikers. They also tend to steal things if you let them and will grab you any chance they get. I had bought a bamboo hiking stick (10 cents) which would come in handy with the monkeys. They try to grab the stick and run up on you but if you hold your ground and fight back, they fold like a lawn chair. They’re feisty little guys though. I watched one climb onto the back of this one Chinese guy who had no clue what to do. Another ran up to a Chinese tourist and, like a small child, was grabbing upward at his shirt as if he wanted to be lifted up. It was quite hilarious. I passed the monkeys and forged on. I heard fast foot-steps and soon had to jump out of the way as two men carrying another man in a shoulder rickshaw like thing come zooming down the hill. Apparently you can pay these guys to carry you through the lower elevation trails. I thought it was hilarious to see, I can’t imagine doing that for a job.
I came to the monastery where the boys from Cali had stayed their first night but it was only 2pm. So I kept going while I had the daylight. Higher and higher I climbed as I passed several Chinese who struggled with the altitude. Some tried to keep up with me but I was on a mission and didn’t mind the peacefulness of being alone. At one point I felt like Frodo Baggins crawling up the backside of Mordor since the trail was so windy and steep. With the dense forest and foggy atmosphere, it even looked like Mordor! I would come up on a monastery, look at my watch and map, and keep going as I still had daylight. As I climbed higher, the temperature dropped. Eventually you notice the ice on the trees and leaves and then you realize the snow and ice are on the trail; that’s where the crampons come in. They’re basically metal spikes that you tie around your shoes and actually work really well. I eventually set my sights on Leidongping, the place where the bus drops you off, and decided I could make it. I eventually ran into a nice young Chinese couple and hiked the final two hours with them. They set a good pace and I had slowed down by this point, some 8 hours from when I started (they had actually started one hour ahead of me and went the same route). We finally reached Leidongping (9:45 minutes total hiking) with daylight left and I was stoked to have come so far. It would only be another two more hours to the top the next morning. I split a room with the nice couple to make it more cost efficient since the higher you go on the mountain the pricier things get. I didn’t think I’d make it so far and realized I could have done the hike in only two days but had already purchased my train ticket back to Kunming. With only two hours left to hike, I figured why not try to make the sunrise the next morning and have two chances to see it than just one. It’s a gamble anyway since you never know if it will be foggy on top or not. The boys from Cali hadn’t seen it due to fog and since I’d gone so far, I figured I’d better give myself two chances.
The next morning we were out by 6:15 in the freezing cold morning that was dense with fog. I wasn’t sure if we’d get to see the sunrise. We broke out flashlights and continued on upwards taking periodic rests. Eventually I noticed a star shimmering in the distance through the forest and realized we had broken the cloud level! It was clear on top!! At that point my adrenaline started pumping for I knew we had time to make the sunrise and that it would be a good one. It was be a race between us and the sun to see who would peak first! I pushed my new friends and encouraged them on. We finally reached the Golden Peak and just in time! There were several people already there jumping up and down, partially anxious to see the sunrise and partially trying to stay warm against the brisk wind. I couldn’t believe my eyes from the top; nothing but a sea of white, beautiful clouds with a crimson horizon as the sun woke up. The rock we were standing on seemed to be floating on the puffy white clouds. It was an incredible, heavy experience to walk among the heavens. The sun rose up and everyone cheered! What an incredible sight. Total hiking time: 11 hours 30 minutes. My legs were sore, my feet were aching, I was freezing cold, and I had the biggest smile on my face for I was gazing at one of nature’s finest wonders. I was 10,000 feet in the air but my spirit soared even higher. On the top of the mountain there’s a monastery and the gaudiest golden statue of some Buddhist deity. As a Christian I laughed as I thought about worshiping false idols as the Chinese went in to pray. If God ever strikes down all the idols of the world down, I should think that this would be first since it’s so close to heaven.
I walked around taking in every sight and appreciating every breath of fresh air that filled my lungs; it felt great to be alive! I ran into the three hikers from Sweden, Germany and Korea that I had met at the bottom and we enjoyed a nice coffee together. The German and I decided to set out on a little adventure to the other peak (which is the actually summit) that is across the way. The only way in which you are to get there is by a monorail that was at the time broken. We said screw it, we’ve come too far. So we hiked on the actual rail itself over to the other side. It was nice to get away from all the tourists and to enjoy the views from the other side. It is a magnificent place where you truly feel divine as you look out at the world from such heights. We took some pics and then headed back along the rail. It’s always good to push yourself and to take small risks from time to time. The rail gets 30+ feet above the ground at two different points which was both fun but also nerve wrecking. We fortunately made it across safely though and I was happy to have challenged myself for the day.
I spent the rest of the day hanging out up top, taking pictures with random Chinese tourists who love Americans, and contemplating life. I found a guest-place for the night that was a little hike downwards but more cost efficient. As the day drew to an end, I watched the sunset and realized how blessed my life really is. I have good health, loving family and friends, and have the ability to travel and enjoy life. One couldn’t ask for much more.
The next morning I would wake up early again and do the same routine. Though this time I made a point to arrive even earlier to see the stars before the sun gobbled them up. I was the first one to the peak at 6:30am and enjoyed the solitude as I gazed into the heavens. I saw several shooting stars and satellites and enjoyed time alone among the heavens. Man has made this place spiritual with all the Buddhist shrines and what-not, but this place is spiritual by nature. This place would make any atheist reconsider their spiritual views. For me, it was the perfect place to talk to God. I had about 30 minutes alone with Him before the first trekkers arrived. I soaked up every minute of it. This day the skies were clearer and you could see the lights from Emei city some 7,500 feet below. It was like the view out of an airplane. The second morning was even colder as the frost from my breath created an icicle mustache. I was tired and couldn’t bear the cold (plus I had already seen the place) so after the sun rose I split.
The walk back down to Leidongping was twice as fast and twice as fun. Half of the stair case is covered with snow and ice and the other half has been cleared for tourists. With the crampons, you can sort of make a controlled effort to slide down the icy side, almost as if you were skiing. It was really fun and made the trip a lot quicker. By the time I reached Leidongping, my legs were shot, feet aching, and I was mentally tired. I decided to take the bus back down to the hostel (I also didn’t want to miss my train). What an adventure though. I had climbed some 2,500 vertical meters over 30+ km and had conquered the great Emeishan. This was one adventure I’ll never forget.
On the 18-hour train ride back, I had plenty of time to reflect. The only thing that was missing from the whole trip was my friends and family. You can be anywhere in the world doing practically anything you love to do, but if you’re not around the ones you love most, life is meaningless. I miss you all; especially those who are reading this because that means you read the entire thing and care about me :). We’ll see what the future holds, but for now I believe I will be returning stateside (perhaps for good) at the end of the summer.
I will be going on another three week adventure south soon. Expect another blog post from me sometime early March.
Cheers!
Friday, January 8, 2010
Happy New Year!
Happy 2010! It seems like yesterday we (well crazy people) were rushing to Walmart loading up on supplies for Y2K. Yet here we are 10 years later still kicking butt. I can't wait to see what people will do come 2012... was that even a good movie? Whether we're on the brink of eminent doom like back then or it's just another New Years celebration, I love the holiday.
It's a chance to restart, set new goals, and re-evaluate your life and where you're headed. My friends and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at an Italian restaurant ran by a sweet German lady, go figure. While waiting for food and enjoying my first glass of decent wine in awhile, I had brought up a memory from the same time one year earlier. I think its fun to note how I brought in the previous year each New Years. Last year I celebrated with all my best friends from home up in the mountains of CO. On New Years day my good buddy Steve Hemphill and I some how managed to wake up early and hit the slopes of Copper mountain... I thought to myself, what a way to start the New Year on the right foot. 2009 had its ups and downs but life was good then and life remains good now. The best part about reflection is that I'm sure the last thing on my mind while bombing Copper Mountain was that I'd be in China exactly one year from then. A year is a long time, and many things can happen. People may fall in or out of your life, Cupid might strike, death may happen. It's truly a blessing to be able to roll with the punches and simply take life as it comes, day by day, week by week, year by year. So although I may be in China with a new group of friends (who I hadn't the slightest clue as to who they were a year ago) who's to say that I'll be here again in one year? Life has its twists and turns; all I can say is learn to twist with it. So if 2009 was tough for anybody, just know that rough seas will pass and brighter days always lie ahead.
I'm excited for 2010, mostly for my time here on the East side of life. I'm hoping to venture down south to Saigon, Vietnam, then trek back north through Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. Then I'll start teaching March 1st and will try to earn back all the money I've blown while unemployed these past few months. My teaching term will end July 3rdish to which I am hoping to travel some more. My ultimate goal during this time is to climb to the Everest base camp in Nepal and possibly the Taj Mahal in Agra, India. We'll see if that happens since it will be Monsoon season but who knows. Once done traveling, I am hoping to have found a career starter and return back stateside. It's been an amazing experience here so far, one I could see myself continuing for some time, however I refuse to pass up a great career opportunity if one presents itself. Since a few have begun to develop, I am really hoping that I can capitalize. If not, then who knows what the latter half of 2010 will hold in store for me.... the biggest lesson has been allowing God to work in my life. I pretty much just let Him push and pull me where he wants me; and honestly, I think that's about all one can do with their life. It's not my will but His; and although I've just mapped out a fairly detailed YEAR with some direction, I know that I can scrap it completely if something arises. One of my favorite professors at PLNU used a quote from Eisenhower, “In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless, but planning is indispensable.” Like I said, it’s important to have direction… but once your course is set, be prepared to adjust to the winds.
I hope everyone has made new goals/resolutions to work towards and that we have stuck with them through the first week of this New Year. I encourage all of you to stay positive, look forward, and good things are going to happen no matter where you are! May it be a blessed New Year… Cheers!
It's a chance to restart, set new goals, and re-evaluate your life and where you're headed. My friends and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at an Italian restaurant ran by a sweet German lady, go figure. While waiting for food and enjoying my first glass of decent wine in awhile, I had brought up a memory from the same time one year earlier. I think its fun to note how I brought in the previous year each New Years. Last year I celebrated with all my best friends from home up in the mountains of CO. On New Years day my good buddy Steve Hemphill and I some how managed to wake up early and hit the slopes of Copper mountain... I thought to myself, what a way to start the New Year on the right foot. 2009 had its ups and downs but life was good then and life remains good now. The best part about reflection is that I'm sure the last thing on my mind while bombing Copper Mountain was that I'd be in China exactly one year from then. A year is a long time, and many things can happen. People may fall in or out of your life, Cupid might strike, death may happen. It's truly a blessing to be able to roll with the punches and simply take life as it comes, day by day, week by week, year by year. So although I may be in China with a new group of friends (who I hadn't the slightest clue as to who they were a year ago) who's to say that I'll be here again in one year? Life has its twists and turns; all I can say is learn to twist with it. So if 2009 was tough for anybody, just know that rough seas will pass and brighter days always lie ahead.
I'm excited for 2010, mostly for my time here on the East side of life. I'm hoping to venture down south to Saigon, Vietnam, then trek back north through Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. Then I'll start teaching March 1st and will try to earn back all the money I've blown while unemployed these past few months. My teaching term will end July 3rdish to which I am hoping to travel some more. My ultimate goal during this time is to climb to the Everest base camp in Nepal and possibly the Taj Mahal in Agra, India. We'll see if that happens since it will be Monsoon season but who knows. Once done traveling, I am hoping to have found a career starter and return back stateside. It's been an amazing experience here so far, one I could see myself continuing for some time, however I refuse to pass up a great career opportunity if one presents itself. Since a few have begun to develop, I am really hoping that I can capitalize. If not, then who knows what the latter half of 2010 will hold in store for me.... the biggest lesson has been allowing God to work in my life. I pretty much just let Him push and pull me where he wants me; and honestly, I think that's about all one can do with their life. It's not my will but His; and although I've just mapped out a fairly detailed YEAR with some direction, I know that I can scrap it completely if something arises. One of my favorite professors at PLNU used a quote from Eisenhower, “In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless, but planning is indispensable.” Like I said, it’s important to have direction… but once your course is set, be prepared to adjust to the winds.
I hope everyone has made new goals/resolutions to work towards and that we have stuck with them through the first week of this New Year. I encourage all of you to stay positive, look forward, and good things are going to happen no matter where you are! May it be a blessed New Year… Cheers!
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