Two weeks, seven cities…
Sorry it’s been so long for those who actually read this. My head’s been in the clouds the last two weeks, literally. I’m only going to touch on a few highlights from the trip since I know that if you’re anything like me, a basic summary will do. Since I enjoy writing in detail to paint the best picture for you, thus making my blogs longer, you may check out my pictures at the following links:
Dali: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Dali?h=44b288
Zhongdian/Deqin: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Zhongdian-Deqin?h=0a995e
Chengdu/Leshan: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Chengdu-Leshan?h=5ea6c8
Emeishan: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Emei%20Shan?h=968376
The first city on my list was one I had passed by on the way to Lijiang and the Tiger Leaping Gorge back in early December. When I had passed through Dali the first time, I couldn’t believe how much it had resembled Denver with the mountains and Erhai Lake. I knew I had to go back. I stayed in Dali’s old town which is halfway up the western bank of Erhai Lake, just at the foot of the Cangshan Mountains. I met some nice people there, particularly the Chinese owner of the 3-month old hostel I stayed at who had the cutest Golden Retriever, Dumbo. I enjoyed the hike around the mountains and the views that came with it; though my idea of beauty would change as I progress to my next two destinations.
I took an overnight bus to Zhongdian which has become a popular destination since the Chinese renamed the surrounded county to Shangri-la. Shangri-la is a fictional place described as a Himalayan mountain utopia that some British guy wrote about in the novel Lost Horizon back in 1933. The name change was done at an attempt to attract tourists to the city even though many places in the Himalayan region compete for the actual title.
I got in early and watched the sunrise on a most beautiful day. The sky was crystal clear blue and I was pumped to be in this pristine mountainous region. I ended up hiking up a mountain with an American who had been living there for some time. The hike was very pleasant and the views were tremendous! At the top of the mountain I could see all the way from the peaks of Lijiang to the south to Meleishan in the north. I would be headed to the city of Deqin the next day which is in the next valley over from Meleishan. It was cool to see the distance between the cities first hand and not just off of a map.
The city of Zhongdian is very peaceful and lies in a quiet valley. Unlike most Chinese cities, Zhongdian has open fields that stretch along the western mountain range. It is a beautiful place and offers a pleasant retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city. I enjoyed the openness and seclusion that Zhongdian provides. The farming lifestyle is a quiet and peaceful one, and the people tend to be more laid back as well. I enjoyed my time there and was happy to see such a cool town.
I caught an early bus to make the 6-hour bus ride to Deqin. The drive itself is worth the trek to Deqin; even though it’s not geographically far away, you need the six hours to wind your way through numerous switchbacks as you cross over two main mountain passes. The drive was incredible as our bus ripped around corners that lacked guardrails; nothing but steep cliffs and a treacherous fate if one were to go over the edge. The bus drivers don’t seem too realize the potential hazard for they hardly slow down and even pass people around blind curves! They just honk and hope no one is coming on the other side, simply mad! As we came over the last pass, the Meleishan peak greeted us with a tip of its brimming white cap. The mountain is a magnificent sight that resembles the Matterhorn. I was stoked!
I got checked into the hostel and was informed that there was a Parisian girl who wanted to go to the Mingyong Glacier but needed somebody to split the cab with since it was an hour away. I would later meet her and we made plans to go the next day to hike up to the glacier. In the mean time I decided to set out on foot towards a good monastery that was some 6 miles up the windy road. I didn’t feel like forking out the money for a taxi and had the time so I figured I’d just walk. While walking I realized that this was silly; there were so many cars traveling this road (since there’s only one road snaking through these mountains) so I decided to stick out my thumb for the first time in my life. I hitched my way a good 5 miles with 3 random Chinese dudes and hiked the rest of the way to the place. I actually never found the monastery since it was just a tiny thing but I did find a beautiful, large veranda to take pictures of the mountain range as the sun was setting. Apparently Feilaisi (the name of the monastery) is also the name of the viewing veranda so that’s why people kept pointing me in the ‘wrong’ direction. It was truly an incredible view. After I bit I hitched my way back and prepared for the hike to the glacier the next day. Deqin is a neat place since 80% of its inhabitants are Tibetan. The Tibetan culture to China is sort of like the Native Indian culture to the US. They are beautiful people with a rich heritage. They are very spiritual and have a strong connection with nature which is something I truly value and appreciated.
The next morning we were up and out early. Marie was a sweet lady from Paris who was simply happy to be alive (I would find out later she meant it quite literally). We started off the hike together but she wanted to take her time so I went ahead. It was another picture perfect day as I hiked up a phenomenal trail. You can ride a donkey to the top for a few bucks so the trail is basically a dirt path with manure everywhere. It was nice to be back in nature, hiking among the ‘foothills’ of the Himalayas. I caught up and passed several Chinese people and finally reached the top of the trail which is the base of the glacier. We all cheered at for having finally made it (though only a two hour hike). There are a few huts and places to eat and relax there. The trail continues and turns into stairs that were put in for tourists to reach a viewing platform halfway up the glacier. So up we climbed. I was able to hang out at the top taking in the beauty while waiting for Marie. She finally made it but was struggling with the altitude (it also could have been the pack of cigarettes she smoked in the taxi on the way over!). The Mingyong Glacier is the world’s lowest altitude glacier. Sometimes you can hear the cracking and moving of the glacier as gravity slowly pushes it downward. I had heard it while hiking up but didn’t while I was actually up there. It simply sounds like thunder. We took pictures and soaked in some rays enjoying every bit of the day.
On the way back down Marie shared with me how she had had a brain tumor and had gone through chemotherapy; that rocked my world. She’s in her early 30’s and it made me realize how precious life is. She told me how she used to barely have enough strength to get out of bed to buy groceries and was worried she’d never travel again. That only confirmed that I had made the right decision to move here to China and do the things I’m doing. We’re only here for so long and who knows when God will come-a-callin’! She’s since overcome the tumor but returns every 6 months for routine check-ups. How blessed we are to have hiked such a beautiful place!
From Deqin I was trying to go to Chengdu in northern Sichuan. Unfortunately, China doesn’t have the infrastructure between the two cities due to the mountains so I had to spend a full day of travel all the way back to Lijiang in the south. I then had to wait 24 hours for the next over-night bus to Chengdu; needless to say, it took a little while (54 hours). I finally got into Chengdu and was less than ecstatic. After being in such pleasant, small-town villages in the pristine mountains of Yunnan, I had arrived back into a bustling, polluted city. It took us an hour just to get across downtown to the bus station because the traffic was so bad! I would only stay one night here, thank goodness. The morning I left, I met three Chinese girls who were headed the same place I was, the Panda Reserve. We all split a cab and walked around checking out all the different Panda exhibits. They are amazing creatures that seem so playful and friendly. Although you can see Panda’s in various zoos in the US, it was cool to see them on their home turf, their place of origin. From there, we split a cab back and I hopped on a bus to Leshan. The buses usually play some sort of movie on longer trips. Usually the movies are some low-budget, Chinese, kung-fu flicks that are horrible and in Mandarin. However this bus ride they played the Pirates of the Caribbean and in English! I couldn’t believe it! I was stoked on the movie and happy to be leaving the city.
I was only passing through Leshan to see the Giant Buddha, the world’s largest statue. I got to the park and went straight for it. The Giant Buddha stands 77 meters tall and is an incredible spectacle. His head reminded me of Mt. Rushmore; I think it would be a great addition right between Lincoln and Teddy. The park that the Giant Buddha lies in is really cool and does a good job preserving the ancient Chinese cultural feel. It was very jungley with pagodas and cool scenes everywhere. After two hours in the park I headed back to the bus station to continue on to Emei where I would stay for the night.
The city of Emei lies at the base of Mt. Emei. Mt. Emei is the largest of the 4 Sacred Buddhist Mountains reaching 10,167 feet at its peak. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site (like the Stone Forest I went to in Kunming) and offers incredible views from the top. All kinds of Chinese tourist come here to climb the peak (or take the modern bus and cable car to the top) and pay homage, sort of like Mecca. After speaking with a couple of nice guys from Cali who had just gotten down from the mountain, I decided to take three days to hike it instead of just two for I would be hiking the long route. They were very nice and gave me all kinds of good info. I loaded up with food supplies, got my crampons (see picture of my shoe in the snow) from the hostel, and was set to go!
The next morning I was up for breakfast early but due to slow service didn’t get out until 9am. There was a group of three from Sweden, Germany, and Korea who were setting out as well but were going a different route. We all left the hostel and jokingly said, “Race ya to the top!” since they were going a shorter route. The first 3 hours of the hike were beautiful. The whole trail is paved and with steps so it’s and easy go. I climbed up and down through the dense jungle. It was humid and foggy which added to the splendor of the hike. It was nice for I found myself pretty much alone the first three hours before hitting a major cross point among the trails. Once there I ran into all the Chinese tourists but what can one do? From the Qinyin Pavilion I continued on the trail which leads up a beautiful river canyon. Eventually you come to the ‘monkey zone’ where numerous monkeys, who are absolutely fearless of people, take food offerings and entertain hikers. They also tend to steal things if you let them and will grab you any chance they get. I had bought a bamboo hiking stick (10 cents) which would come in handy with the monkeys. They try to grab the stick and run up on you but if you hold your ground and fight back, they fold like a lawn chair. They’re feisty little guys though. I watched one climb onto the back of this one Chinese guy who had no clue what to do. Another ran up to a Chinese tourist and, like a small child, was grabbing upward at his shirt as if he wanted to be lifted up. It was quite hilarious. I passed the monkeys and forged on. I heard fast foot-steps and soon had to jump out of the way as two men carrying another man in a shoulder rickshaw like thing come zooming down the hill. Apparently you can pay these guys to carry you through the lower elevation trails. I thought it was hilarious to see, I can’t imagine doing that for a job.
I came to the monastery where the boys from Cali had stayed their first night but it was only 2pm. So I kept going while I had the daylight. Higher and higher I climbed as I passed several Chinese who struggled with the altitude. Some tried to keep up with me but I was on a mission and didn’t mind the peacefulness of being alone. At one point I felt like Frodo Baggins crawling up the backside of Mordor since the trail was so windy and steep. With the dense forest and foggy atmosphere, it even looked like Mordor! I would come up on a monastery, look at my watch and map, and keep going as I still had daylight. As I climbed higher, the temperature dropped. Eventually you notice the ice on the trees and leaves and then you realize the snow and ice are on the trail; that’s where the crampons come in. They’re basically metal spikes that you tie around your shoes and actually work really well. I eventually set my sights on Leidongping, the place where the bus drops you off, and decided I could make it. I eventually ran into a nice young Chinese couple and hiked the final two hours with them. They set a good pace and I had slowed down by this point, some 8 hours from when I started (they had actually started one hour ahead of me and went the same route). We finally reached Leidongping (9:45 minutes total hiking) with daylight left and I was stoked to have come so far. It would only be another two more hours to the top the next morning. I split a room with the nice couple to make it more cost efficient since the higher you go on the mountain the pricier things get. I didn’t think I’d make it so far and realized I could have done the hike in only two days but had already purchased my train ticket back to Kunming. With only two hours left to hike, I figured why not try to make the sunrise the next morning and have two chances to see it than just one. It’s a gamble anyway since you never know if it will be foggy on top or not. The boys from Cali hadn’t seen it due to fog and since I’d gone so far, I figured I’d better give myself two chances.
The next morning we were out by 6:15 in the freezing cold morning that was dense with fog. I wasn’t sure if we’d get to see the sunrise. We broke out flashlights and continued on upwards taking periodic rests. Eventually I noticed a star shimmering in the distance through the forest and realized we had broken the cloud level! It was clear on top!! At that point my adrenaline started pumping for I knew we had time to make the sunrise and that it would be a good one. It was be a race between us and the sun to see who would peak first! I pushed my new friends and encouraged them on. We finally reached the Golden Peak and just in time! There were several people already there jumping up and down, partially anxious to see the sunrise and partially trying to stay warm against the brisk wind. I couldn’t believe my eyes from the top; nothing but a sea of white, beautiful clouds with a crimson horizon as the sun woke up. The rock we were standing on seemed to be floating on the puffy white clouds. It was an incredible, heavy experience to walk among the heavens. The sun rose up and everyone cheered! What an incredible sight. Total hiking time: 11 hours 30 minutes. My legs were sore, my feet were aching, I was freezing cold, and I had the biggest smile on my face for I was gazing at one of nature’s finest wonders. I was 10,000 feet in the air but my spirit soared even higher. On the top of the mountain there’s a monastery and the gaudiest golden statue of some Buddhist deity. As a Christian I laughed as I thought about worshiping false idols as the Chinese went in to pray. If God ever strikes down all the idols of the world down, I should think that this would be first since it’s so close to heaven.
I walked around taking in every sight and appreciating every breath of fresh air that filled my lungs; it felt great to be alive! I ran into the three hikers from Sweden, Germany and Korea that I had met at the bottom and we enjoyed a nice coffee together. The German and I decided to set out on a little adventure to the other peak (which is the actually summit) that is across the way. The only way in which you are to get there is by a monorail that was at the time broken. We said screw it, we’ve come too far. So we hiked on the actual rail itself over to the other side. It was nice to get away from all the tourists and to enjoy the views from the other side. It is a magnificent place where you truly feel divine as you look out at the world from such heights. We took some pics and then headed back along the rail. It’s always good to push yourself and to take small risks from time to time. The rail gets 30+ feet above the ground at two different points which was both fun but also nerve wrecking. We fortunately made it across safely though and I was happy to have challenged myself for the day.
I spent the rest of the day hanging out up top, taking pictures with random Chinese tourists who love Americans, and contemplating life. I found a guest-place for the night that was a little hike downwards but more cost efficient. As the day drew to an end, I watched the sunset and realized how blessed my life really is. I have good health, loving family and friends, and have the ability to travel and enjoy life. One couldn’t ask for much more.
The next morning I would wake up early again and do the same routine. Though this time I made a point to arrive even earlier to see the stars before the sun gobbled them up. I was the first one to the peak at 6:30am and enjoyed the solitude as I gazed into the heavens. I saw several shooting stars and satellites and enjoyed time alone among the heavens. Man has made this place spiritual with all the Buddhist shrines and what-not, but this place is spiritual by nature. This place would make any atheist reconsider their spiritual views. For me, it was the perfect place to talk to God. I had about 30 minutes alone with Him before the first trekkers arrived. I soaked up every minute of it. This day the skies were clearer and you could see the lights from Emei city some 7,500 feet below. It was like the view out of an airplane. The second morning was even colder as the frost from my breath created an icicle mustache. I was tired and couldn’t bear the cold (plus I had already seen the place) so after the sun rose I split.
The walk back down to Leidongping was twice as fast and twice as fun. Half of the stair case is covered with snow and ice and the other half has been cleared for tourists. With the crampons, you can sort of make a controlled effort to slide down the icy side, almost as if you were skiing. It was really fun and made the trip a lot quicker. By the time I reached Leidongping, my legs were shot, feet aching, and I was mentally tired. I decided to take the bus back down to the hostel (I also didn’t want to miss my train). What an adventure though. I had climbed some 2,500 vertical meters over 30+ km and had conquered the great Emeishan. This was one adventure I’ll never forget.
On the 18-hour train ride back, I had plenty of time to reflect. The only thing that was missing from the whole trip was my friends and family. You can be anywhere in the world doing practically anything you love to do, but if you’re not around the ones you love most, life is meaningless. I miss you all; especially those who are reading this because that means you read the entire thing and care about me :). We’ll see what the future holds, but for now I believe I will be returning stateside (perhaps for good) at the end of the summer.
I will be going on another three week adventure south soon. Expect another blog post from me sometime early March.
Cheers!
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Friday, January 8, 2010
Happy New Year!
Happy 2010! It seems like yesterday we (well crazy people) were rushing to Walmart loading up on supplies for Y2K. Yet here we are 10 years later still kicking butt. I can't wait to see what people will do come 2012... was that even a good movie? Whether we're on the brink of eminent doom like back then or it's just another New Years celebration, I love the holiday.
It's a chance to restart, set new goals, and re-evaluate your life and where you're headed. My friends and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at an Italian restaurant ran by a sweet German lady, go figure. While waiting for food and enjoying my first glass of decent wine in awhile, I had brought up a memory from the same time one year earlier. I think its fun to note how I brought in the previous year each New Years. Last year I celebrated with all my best friends from home up in the mountains of CO. On New Years day my good buddy Steve Hemphill and I some how managed to wake up early and hit the slopes of Copper mountain... I thought to myself, what a way to start the New Year on the right foot. 2009 had its ups and downs but life was good then and life remains good now. The best part about reflection is that I'm sure the last thing on my mind while bombing Copper Mountain was that I'd be in China exactly one year from then. A year is a long time, and many things can happen. People may fall in or out of your life, Cupid might strike, death may happen. It's truly a blessing to be able to roll with the punches and simply take life as it comes, day by day, week by week, year by year. So although I may be in China with a new group of friends (who I hadn't the slightest clue as to who they were a year ago) who's to say that I'll be here again in one year? Life has its twists and turns; all I can say is learn to twist with it. So if 2009 was tough for anybody, just know that rough seas will pass and brighter days always lie ahead.
I'm excited for 2010, mostly for my time here on the East side of life. I'm hoping to venture down south to Saigon, Vietnam, then trek back north through Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. Then I'll start teaching March 1st and will try to earn back all the money I've blown while unemployed these past few months. My teaching term will end July 3rdish to which I am hoping to travel some more. My ultimate goal during this time is to climb to the Everest base camp in Nepal and possibly the Taj Mahal in Agra, India. We'll see if that happens since it will be Monsoon season but who knows. Once done traveling, I am hoping to have found a career starter and return back stateside. It's been an amazing experience here so far, one I could see myself continuing for some time, however I refuse to pass up a great career opportunity if one presents itself. Since a few have begun to develop, I am really hoping that I can capitalize. If not, then who knows what the latter half of 2010 will hold in store for me.... the biggest lesson has been allowing God to work in my life. I pretty much just let Him push and pull me where he wants me; and honestly, I think that's about all one can do with their life. It's not my will but His; and although I've just mapped out a fairly detailed YEAR with some direction, I know that I can scrap it completely if something arises. One of my favorite professors at PLNU used a quote from Eisenhower, “In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless, but planning is indispensable.” Like I said, it’s important to have direction… but once your course is set, be prepared to adjust to the winds.
I hope everyone has made new goals/resolutions to work towards and that we have stuck with them through the first week of this New Year. I encourage all of you to stay positive, look forward, and good things are going to happen no matter where you are! May it be a blessed New Year… Cheers!
It's a chance to restart, set new goals, and re-evaluate your life and where you're headed. My friends and I enjoyed a wonderful dinner at an Italian restaurant ran by a sweet German lady, go figure. While waiting for food and enjoying my first glass of decent wine in awhile, I had brought up a memory from the same time one year earlier. I think its fun to note how I brought in the previous year each New Years. Last year I celebrated with all my best friends from home up in the mountains of CO. On New Years day my good buddy Steve Hemphill and I some how managed to wake up early and hit the slopes of Copper mountain... I thought to myself, what a way to start the New Year on the right foot. 2009 had its ups and downs but life was good then and life remains good now. The best part about reflection is that I'm sure the last thing on my mind while bombing Copper Mountain was that I'd be in China exactly one year from then. A year is a long time, and many things can happen. People may fall in or out of your life, Cupid might strike, death may happen. It's truly a blessing to be able to roll with the punches and simply take life as it comes, day by day, week by week, year by year. So although I may be in China with a new group of friends (who I hadn't the slightest clue as to who they were a year ago) who's to say that I'll be here again in one year? Life has its twists and turns; all I can say is learn to twist with it. So if 2009 was tough for anybody, just know that rough seas will pass and brighter days always lie ahead.
I'm excited for 2010, mostly for my time here on the East side of life. I'm hoping to venture down south to Saigon, Vietnam, then trek back north through Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. Then I'll start teaching March 1st and will try to earn back all the money I've blown while unemployed these past few months. My teaching term will end July 3rdish to which I am hoping to travel some more. My ultimate goal during this time is to climb to the Everest base camp in Nepal and possibly the Taj Mahal in Agra, India. We'll see if that happens since it will be Monsoon season but who knows. Once done traveling, I am hoping to have found a career starter and return back stateside. It's been an amazing experience here so far, one I could see myself continuing for some time, however I refuse to pass up a great career opportunity if one presents itself. Since a few have begun to develop, I am really hoping that I can capitalize. If not, then who knows what the latter half of 2010 will hold in store for me.... the biggest lesson has been allowing God to work in my life. I pretty much just let Him push and pull me where he wants me; and honestly, I think that's about all one can do with their life. It's not my will but His; and although I've just mapped out a fairly detailed YEAR with some direction, I know that I can scrap it completely if something arises. One of my favorite professors at PLNU used a quote from Eisenhower, “In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless, but planning is indispensable.” Like I said, it’s important to have direction… but once your course is set, be prepared to adjust to the winds.
I hope everyone has made new goals/resolutions to work towards and that we have stuck with them through the first week of this New Year. I encourage all of you to stay positive, look forward, and good things are going to happen no matter where you are! May it be a blessed New Year… Cheers!
Monday, December 28, 2009
A Kunming Christmas
Being anywhere but home for the holidays is always tough... I mean this is the first time I've ever been away for either Thanksgiving or Christmas, and certainly both. Although I do miss the frosted landscape of the Rocky Mountains, the frigid weather, and all of my friends and family, I managed to have a wonderful Christmas with my friends here in Kunming.
We celebrated Italian style making a large feast of pasta and pizza, homemade of course. We all joined together Christmas Eve for the celebration and had a great time. The highlight of the night was our Secret Santa exchange, which I had actually never done before. We all gave and received awesome gifts; gifts of love and meaning. We also had a few humorous poetry recitations, played charades, and enjoyed the many unique talents that our group has to offer. It was a festive evening full of joy and high spirits.
Christmas morning my roommate Chiara and I attended a local church service that was interesting to see. Although it was all in Mandarin, it was nice to be in a place of welcoming spirits. Some of the music they played were of hymns that any Christian would recognize; it's incredible how religion is such a unifying theme in our lives. It doesn't matter what side of the globe you are on or what language you speak, the foundational beliefs are the same. It was welcoming to know that there are some local Kunminger's who have the same values and morals as I do despite living in a controlling environment (Chinese gov.) surrounded by popular Buddhist tradition. The service was 2.5 hours of which we stayed 1.5. Ok ok, forgive me for ducking out early but it was a bit dry. Despite this fact I've never had Christmas feel so alive in my heart. I am overwhelmed with joy this time of year and am grateful for the birth of my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. It is the comfort He provides that allows me to overcome the homesickness... and trust me, I wouldn't rather be anywhere but Littleton, CO this time of year!
Christmas day was fun as well as we watched 'It's a Wonderful Life'. Little did I know that the movie would have a profound effect on me later that evening. I was invited to a work party at a school I'm going to be teaching at this coming spring. On the way to the party, I had my iPhone stolen out of a zipped up jacket pocket on the public bus. I think I just missed the guy in action since I check my valuables every 3-5 minutes, literally. I freaked out for two seconds then calmed my nerves and tried to trouble shoot the issue but it was too late. I had gotten off the bus to look for someone suspicious who might have just napped my most prized possession. After the buses cleared I knew it was long gone. A nice gentlemen saw my bewilderment and I was able to explain the situation. He called the cops for me which was actually a worse idea. I couldn't call my phone since I didn't know my own number so I was helpless. I sat with the cops for 4 hours waiting to fill out a stupid form that will do nothing but add another number to the theft victim list for 2009.
While waiting a young women had come into the police office and had here laptop stolen out of here carrying case. She was able to put up a struggle but still was robbed. It didn't make me feel any better but at least I wasn't alone. After a long night at the police station and having missed my party, I just went home to rest.
The next morning was fine but after picking up an old-school Nokia to replace my iPhone, I came down with the 24 stomach flu which had been going around. I had a horrendous afternoon. That night I listened to the Rock Church's latest sermon that couldn't have been more appropriately titled as "Why do bad things happen to good people". It was very lifting; Miles quoted Job who at one point loses all of his wealth and worldly possessions at once. So what does he do? He strips naked and prays. He says he came into this world naked and everything that he'd ever owned belongs to God. We are simply managers of everything we have. The devil may temp and try us, but the kind of faith that Job displays is the kind of faith that I would like to have someday. The kind where no matter what happens, we never blame God and always worship Him for we know that each day is a gift no matter what. And now that I'm healthy again, I seek to live every day with such faith.
That's my Kunming Christmas story; definitely one I'll never forget!
We celebrated Italian style making a large feast of pasta and pizza, homemade of course. We all joined together Christmas Eve for the celebration and had a great time. The highlight of the night was our Secret Santa exchange, which I had actually never done before. We all gave and received awesome gifts; gifts of love and meaning. We also had a few humorous poetry recitations, played charades, and enjoyed the many unique talents that our group has to offer. It was a festive evening full of joy and high spirits.
Christmas morning my roommate Chiara and I attended a local church service that was interesting to see. Although it was all in Mandarin, it was nice to be in a place of welcoming spirits. Some of the music they played were of hymns that any Christian would recognize; it's incredible how religion is such a unifying theme in our lives. It doesn't matter what side of the globe you are on or what language you speak, the foundational beliefs are the same. It was welcoming to know that there are some local Kunminger's who have the same values and morals as I do despite living in a controlling environment (Chinese gov.) surrounded by popular Buddhist tradition. The service was 2.5 hours of which we stayed 1.5. Ok ok, forgive me for ducking out early but it was a bit dry. Despite this fact I've never had Christmas feel so alive in my heart. I am overwhelmed with joy this time of year and am grateful for the birth of my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. It is the comfort He provides that allows me to overcome the homesickness... and trust me, I wouldn't rather be anywhere but Littleton, CO this time of year!
Christmas day was fun as well as we watched 'It's a Wonderful Life'. Little did I know that the movie would have a profound effect on me later that evening. I was invited to a work party at a school I'm going to be teaching at this coming spring. On the way to the party, I had my iPhone stolen out of a zipped up jacket pocket on the public bus. I think I just missed the guy in action since I check my valuables every 3-5 minutes, literally. I freaked out for two seconds then calmed my nerves and tried to trouble shoot the issue but it was too late. I had gotten off the bus to look for someone suspicious who might have just napped my most prized possession. After the buses cleared I knew it was long gone. A nice gentlemen saw my bewilderment and I was able to explain the situation. He called the cops for me which was actually a worse idea. I couldn't call my phone since I didn't know my own number so I was helpless. I sat with the cops for 4 hours waiting to fill out a stupid form that will do nothing but add another number to the theft victim list for 2009.
While waiting a young women had come into the police office and had here laptop stolen out of here carrying case. She was able to put up a struggle but still was robbed. It didn't make me feel any better but at least I wasn't alone. After a long night at the police station and having missed my party, I just went home to rest.
The next morning was fine but after picking up an old-school Nokia to replace my iPhone, I came down with the 24 stomach flu which had been going around. I had a horrendous afternoon. That night I listened to the Rock Church's latest sermon that couldn't have been more appropriately titled as "Why do bad things happen to good people". It was very lifting; Miles quoted Job who at one point loses all of his wealth and worldly possessions at once. So what does he do? He strips naked and prays. He says he came into this world naked and everything that he'd ever owned belongs to God. We are simply managers of everything we have. The devil may temp and try us, but the kind of faith that Job displays is the kind of faith that I would like to have someday. The kind where no matter what happens, we never blame God and always worship Him for we know that each day is a gift no matter what. And now that I'm healthy again, I seek to live every day with such faith.
That's my Kunming Christmas story; definitely one I'll never forget!
Monday, December 21, 2009
'Nam-Halong Bay
(Read below: 'Nam-Hanoi' to follow sequence of events)
Eight AM came too early but I was amped for the trip. Down in the lobby we all gathered like lost sheep. Finally Viet, our hysterical Vietnamese tour guide, showed us to our bus. We reached Halong Bay after a short four hours and caught a skiff to the Jolly Roger, our sleeper boat for the night. We punched out of Halong Bay for a more secluded spot among the many islands there. We ate lunch on the way and got to know each other even better. With a group of 9 Aussies, 6 Brits, 3 New Zealanders, a German, a Pilipino, an Irish, and a girl from Copenhagen (not to mention the older crowd of 5) how could we not have fun? As soon as the boat anchored down in our gorgeous bay for the night, we busted out the Spedo’s for a swim. We had a blast launching ourselves off of the boat before going on short kayak and enjoyed the spectacular sunset that took place thereafter. Only a few hours into the trip and I was already in heaven! Life on the seas isn’t bad and I definitely could spend some time living on a boat.
Since it began to cool off, we stayed inside most of the night drinking and having a good time. I couldn’t believe that despite our well represented group from around the world, the common denominator would be drinking games. King’s Cup was a favorite followed by the box game to which pictures are worth a thousand words of explanation. Basically, we had fun :) Most of us crashed at a decent hour (like 3) but felt the effects of sleep deprivation the next day.
Breakfast was at 8am but was very nice to get up for. After that we parted with the Jolly Roger in search for the private island where we would stay. The first thought that came to mind when we pulled up to the island was a clip from the movie “The Beach” where Leonardo DeCaprio finds a secret civilization that lives on a paradisaical lagoon. It had a nice stretch of beach, volleyball net, rock climbing set up, and to top it off an old police boat turned wake boarding boat; heaven. The sun wasn’t shining but that didn’t damper my spirits. We settled into our huts and waited around for lunch while exploring the place a bit. Some chose rock climbing as their ‘activity’ while others waited for water sports. The boat was busted but within a few hours they had fixed it. There was extra room on the tubes so when it came time to tube I was all-in. There were four of us spread evenly among two tubes. The two girls on the other tube had never been before and were in for a ride while my tube partner and I were experts. However, our driver was a maniac Vietnamese ex-Nascar driver and had us in the water in no time. After toning it down a notch we splashed around and had some fun bouncing between tubes.
We got back and switched personnel for wake boarding. The first group were decent, only one of whom had done it before. I was in the second group with two beginners as well. The two English blokes running the joint were dumb as bricks and just as thoughtless. They gave little instruction so I tried to help where I could. Finally it was my turn to which I enjoyed supremely. I never thought I’d find myself behind a boat in Vietnam doing what I love most. It was refreshing to get my water sport fix even if just for a bit. We got back onto the island, chilled to the bone, but were able to warm up with some coffee (which by the way is delicious in Vietnam). We played some games like volleyball and freeze tag to warm ourselves up and thoroughly enjoyed the never ending humor of one another. The Brits were very sarcastic and witty (I called them the ‘funny boys’) and all were good sports with the jokes. My favorite was Mickey, who had a lazy eye, long curly hair, and an accent thicker than Fat Bastard himself. He took most of the jokes (deserving so) and was non-stop entertainment with his random comments and un-athletic attempts at volleyball. He was a good man but easy to tease.
We enjoyed a nice BBQ dinner consisting of various sea foods under candlelight. The generator had provided its last flicker of light just in time to get dinner cooked, but failed to provide us with electricity for the rest of the night. I was perfectly fine with the primitive state. It was very peaceful and invigorating to get back to the basics on some primitive island in the middle of nowhere. We made a bonfire to keep warm and sat around telling stories, playing guitar, singing improvised versions of whatever, and of course drinking. We were in our own world of paradise and for a few moments, everything just slipped away. Everyone was tired and for the most part, went to bed early. We would have another early morning the next day. As I fell asleep to the sounds of lapping waves on the beach, I couldn’t help but thank my lucky stars for everything I was experiencing. I was making international friends, enjoying the sports and activities I love, and most of all, giving thanks for the ability to do them all. I am a blessed man and am forever grateful for all that He has provided me with.
The meal gong had rung aloud around 7:30 and we stumbled out of our huts. We ate breakfast and said fairly well to this island of paradise. It was a quiet ride back as we reflected how much fun we all had together. Once we returned to the hostel, we reluctantly split to find arrangements for the night but had planned to meet up later. We had just grown that close on the trip. I unfortunately had to split that night back to the border but was able to have dinner with the crew one last time. We exchanged information and hugged good-bye with heavy hearts. The trip was short but sweet and I can only hope to keep in touch with some of my new-found friends. My adventure back would be long but the recent memory of good times would bring peace to my heart. Traveling is a deep passion of mine; its one of those rites of passage for anyone who is a human being. It’s human nature to explore, meet new people, and push oneself to their limits. This past trip had provided all three and has further energized my soul to live life to the fullest.
Pictures: See link in post below
Eight AM came too early but I was amped for the trip. Down in the lobby we all gathered like lost sheep. Finally Viet, our hysterical Vietnamese tour guide, showed us to our bus. We reached Halong Bay after a short four hours and caught a skiff to the Jolly Roger, our sleeper boat for the night. We punched out of Halong Bay for a more secluded spot among the many islands there. We ate lunch on the way and got to know each other even better. With a group of 9 Aussies, 6 Brits, 3 New Zealanders, a German, a Pilipino, an Irish, and a girl from Copenhagen (not to mention the older crowd of 5) how could we not have fun? As soon as the boat anchored down in our gorgeous bay for the night, we busted out the Spedo’s for a swim. We had a blast launching ourselves off of the boat before going on short kayak and enjoyed the spectacular sunset that took place thereafter. Only a few hours into the trip and I was already in heaven! Life on the seas isn’t bad and I definitely could spend some time living on a boat.
Since it began to cool off, we stayed inside most of the night drinking and having a good time. I couldn’t believe that despite our well represented group from around the world, the common denominator would be drinking games. King’s Cup was a favorite followed by the box game to which pictures are worth a thousand words of explanation. Basically, we had fun :) Most of us crashed at a decent hour (like 3) but felt the effects of sleep deprivation the next day.
Breakfast was at 8am but was very nice to get up for. After that we parted with the Jolly Roger in search for the private island where we would stay. The first thought that came to mind when we pulled up to the island was a clip from the movie “The Beach” where Leonardo DeCaprio finds a secret civilization that lives on a paradisaical lagoon. It had a nice stretch of beach, volleyball net, rock climbing set up, and to top it off an old police boat turned wake boarding boat; heaven. The sun wasn’t shining but that didn’t damper my spirits. We settled into our huts and waited around for lunch while exploring the place a bit. Some chose rock climbing as their ‘activity’ while others waited for water sports. The boat was busted but within a few hours they had fixed it. There was extra room on the tubes so when it came time to tube I was all-in. There were four of us spread evenly among two tubes. The two girls on the other tube had never been before and were in for a ride while my tube partner and I were experts. However, our driver was a maniac Vietnamese ex-Nascar driver and had us in the water in no time. After toning it down a notch we splashed around and had some fun bouncing between tubes.
We got back and switched personnel for wake boarding. The first group were decent, only one of whom had done it before. I was in the second group with two beginners as well. The two English blokes running the joint were dumb as bricks and just as thoughtless. They gave little instruction so I tried to help where I could. Finally it was my turn to which I enjoyed supremely. I never thought I’d find myself behind a boat in Vietnam doing what I love most. It was refreshing to get my water sport fix even if just for a bit. We got back onto the island, chilled to the bone, but were able to warm up with some coffee (which by the way is delicious in Vietnam). We played some games like volleyball and freeze tag to warm ourselves up and thoroughly enjoyed the never ending humor of one another. The Brits were very sarcastic and witty (I called them the ‘funny boys’) and all were good sports with the jokes. My favorite was Mickey, who had a lazy eye, long curly hair, and an accent thicker than Fat Bastard himself. He took most of the jokes (deserving so) and was non-stop entertainment with his random comments and un-athletic attempts at volleyball. He was a good man but easy to tease.
We enjoyed a nice BBQ dinner consisting of various sea foods under candlelight. The generator had provided its last flicker of light just in time to get dinner cooked, but failed to provide us with electricity for the rest of the night. I was perfectly fine with the primitive state. It was very peaceful and invigorating to get back to the basics on some primitive island in the middle of nowhere. We made a bonfire to keep warm and sat around telling stories, playing guitar, singing improvised versions of whatever, and of course drinking. We were in our own world of paradise and for a few moments, everything just slipped away. Everyone was tired and for the most part, went to bed early. We would have another early morning the next day. As I fell asleep to the sounds of lapping waves on the beach, I couldn’t help but thank my lucky stars for everything I was experiencing. I was making international friends, enjoying the sports and activities I love, and most of all, giving thanks for the ability to do them all. I am a blessed man and am forever grateful for all that He has provided me with.
The meal gong had rung aloud around 7:30 and we stumbled out of our huts. We ate breakfast and said fairly well to this island of paradise. It was a quiet ride back as we reflected how much fun we all had together. Once we returned to the hostel, we reluctantly split to find arrangements for the night but had planned to meet up later. We had just grown that close on the trip. I unfortunately had to split that night back to the border but was able to have dinner with the crew one last time. We exchanged information and hugged good-bye with heavy hearts. The trip was short but sweet and I can only hope to keep in touch with some of my new-found friends. My adventure back would be long but the recent memory of good times would bring peace to my heart. Traveling is a deep passion of mine; its one of those rites of passage for anyone who is a human being. It’s human nature to explore, meet new people, and push oneself to their limits. This past trip had provided all three and has further energized my soul to live life to the fullest.
Pictures: See link in post below
'Nam-Hanoi
Sorry my posts are very inconsistent; I simply write as the stories unfold. I appreciate your flexibility :)
In order to be in Kunming for Christmas, I took a pre-emptive exit from China and headed down to Hanoi, Vietnam. With my visa still limited to 30-day stays in China, it’s been a pain having to plan such trips but a blessing for forcing me to travel.
After an overnight bus to the border and an eight hour train ride to Hanoi, I was pretty exhausted. Sitting close to me on the train was the cutest little bundle of life, a 5 year old Vietnamese girl. Her smile just warmed my heart as I played little games with her. Despite her perpetual smile, I failed to get a good photo which just made me mad. Owell, I'll never forget having fun with my new little friend.
Though drained from traveling, my spirits would be lifted at the excitement of a new city that was buzzing with energy. The Vietnamese soccer team had just beaten Singapore in a big tournament game and every Vietnamese citizen was letting the world know. It was madness! The streets were lined with motorbikes, cars, trucks, and people. People were on top of cars, on top of trucks, and even standing on motorbikes as the zoomed through the streets; simply mad! All were wearing red and waving the Vietnamese red flag. It was refreshing to see a country’s people in such support of their nation and how sport can bring people together. I cruised around the city sampling the local beers and trying different foods which were good but not so different from that which I’ve had in China.
The hostel I checked into is called Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel and is ran by Aussies. One of few European style hostels, this place was epic. It was teeming with interesting people from all over the globe, some of which I would meet later, but for the first night I was pooped. I crashed early in hopes of exploring the entire city the next day.
I was up and out by 9:30am which would give me plenty of time to tour the city. I had my free breakfast and signed up for the Hostel’s Halong Bay tour. I met some girls who were signing up as well and they convinced me that the three day trip was worth the extra money versus the two day trip; they were right. So with that business taken care off, I set off with my tour map to see the sites.
First on the list was the Hoa Lo Prison, better known as the “Hanoi Hilton” as the American POW’s of the Vietnam War called it. It was intriguing from a historical perspective but honestly nothing to write home about. It was interesting to see the Vietnamese bias come through the information placards and one particular video that made the Vietnamese look like some Goliath force against the US. There were also many tributes to John McCain who was held there. From there I walked towards the Opera House and a couple of museums. I chuckled as I saw the real Hanoi Hilton sitting next to the Opera House, right down the street from the Hao Lo Prison. I’m not the biggest fan of museums unless they are world renown so I simply passed them by.
I enjoyed observing the culture of the city streets. The motorbike is by far the most popular means of transportation in the city. The street is so dense with motorbikes that it makes crossing the street a life and death obstacle; one that I actually enjoyed because it was like Frogger in real life. They are actually really good about swerving pedestrians and after awhile the task isn’t so daunting.
The French had a large influence in Vietnam before it became torn apart; therefore, many buildings had European style architecture that gave the city some charm. Most buildings are also very narrow, yet tall and steep. This is because the government taxes you based on how much sidewalk space the front of your building takes up. In the center of Old Quarter is a peaceful lake where you can find locals and foreigners alike taking in the scenery. The fast pace of the city was fun but after a day of walking around, you simply get sick of it, literally. The fumes from all the exhaust were overwhelming so it was nice to rest out on the large lawn in front of Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. I eventually looped back around to the hostel around mid-afternoon. It gave me time to search for a pair of sandals in preparation for the three day tour where my feet would either be in sand or water (and seriously, who wears shoes to the beach?).
It’s always fun bargaining prices for stuff. My sandals would be no different. I put them on immediately for it was very humid and warm and socks just didn’t fit the bill. I toted my shoes on the way back and stopped to pick up a delicious sandwich. I also sampled some interesting soup. Meanwhile, I had to set my bag of shoes down to handle my sandwich and soup and then got distracted talking to a nice German guy. I ended up leaving my bag of shoes at the sandwich place as I walked and talked with the German guy! But didn’t mind for they were old and falling apart. I love moments when you realize your own stupidity because it sets you back on the ground. Nobody’s perfect and I’m no exception.
That night I would meet a nice Aussie couple and enjoyed a few drinks with them. I headed off to bed early again for our trip left at 8am the next morning. Little did I know how much fun I was in for....
Pictures: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Vietnam?h=71f111
In order to be in Kunming for Christmas, I took a pre-emptive exit from China and headed down to Hanoi, Vietnam. With my visa still limited to 30-day stays in China, it’s been a pain having to plan such trips but a blessing for forcing me to travel.
After an overnight bus to the border and an eight hour train ride to Hanoi, I was pretty exhausted. Sitting close to me on the train was the cutest little bundle of life, a 5 year old Vietnamese girl. Her smile just warmed my heart as I played little games with her. Despite her perpetual smile, I failed to get a good photo which just made me mad. Owell, I'll never forget having fun with my new little friend.
Though drained from traveling, my spirits would be lifted at the excitement of a new city that was buzzing with energy. The Vietnamese soccer team had just beaten Singapore in a big tournament game and every Vietnamese citizen was letting the world know. It was madness! The streets were lined with motorbikes, cars, trucks, and people. People were on top of cars, on top of trucks, and even standing on motorbikes as the zoomed through the streets; simply mad! All were wearing red and waving the Vietnamese red flag. It was refreshing to see a country’s people in such support of their nation and how sport can bring people together. I cruised around the city sampling the local beers and trying different foods which were good but not so different from that which I’ve had in China.
The hostel I checked into is called Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel and is ran by Aussies. One of few European style hostels, this place was epic. It was teeming with interesting people from all over the globe, some of which I would meet later, but for the first night I was pooped. I crashed early in hopes of exploring the entire city the next day.
I was up and out by 9:30am which would give me plenty of time to tour the city. I had my free breakfast and signed up for the Hostel’s Halong Bay tour. I met some girls who were signing up as well and they convinced me that the three day trip was worth the extra money versus the two day trip; they were right. So with that business taken care off, I set off with my tour map to see the sites.
First on the list was the Hoa Lo Prison, better known as the “Hanoi Hilton” as the American POW’s of the Vietnam War called it. It was intriguing from a historical perspective but honestly nothing to write home about. It was interesting to see the Vietnamese bias come through the information placards and one particular video that made the Vietnamese look like some Goliath force against the US. There were also many tributes to John McCain who was held there. From there I walked towards the Opera House and a couple of museums. I chuckled as I saw the real Hanoi Hilton sitting next to the Opera House, right down the street from the Hao Lo Prison. I’m not the biggest fan of museums unless they are world renown so I simply passed them by.
I enjoyed observing the culture of the city streets. The motorbike is by far the most popular means of transportation in the city. The street is so dense with motorbikes that it makes crossing the street a life and death obstacle; one that I actually enjoyed because it was like Frogger in real life. They are actually really good about swerving pedestrians and after awhile the task isn’t so daunting.
The French had a large influence in Vietnam before it became torn apart; therefore, many buildings had European style architecture that gave the city some charm. Most buildings are also very narrow, yet tall and steep. This is because the government taxes you based on how much sidewalk space the front of your building takes up. In the center of Old Quarter is a peaceful lake where you can find locals and foreigners alike taking in the scenery. The fast pace of the city was fun but after a day of walking around, you simply get sick of it, literally. The fumes from all the exhaust were overwhelming so it was nice to rest out on the large lawn in front of Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. I eventually looped back around to the hostel around mid-afternoon. It gave me time to search for a pair of sandals in preparation for the three day tour where my feet would either be in sand or water (and seriously, who wears shoes to the beach?).
It’s always fun bargaining prices for stuff. My sandals would be no different. I put them on immediately for it was very humid and warm and socks just didn’t fit the bill. I toted my shoes on the way back and stopped to pick up a delicious sandwich. I also sampled some interesting soup. Meanwhile, I had to set my bag of shoes down to handle my sandwich and soup and then got distracted talking to a nice German guy. I ended up leaving my bag of shoes at the sandwich place as I walked and talked with the German guy! But didn’t mind for they were old and falling apart. I love moments when you realize your own stupidity because it sets you back on the ground. Nobody’s perfect and I’m no exception.
That night I would meet a nice Aussie couple and enjoyed a few drinks with them. I headed off to bed early again for our trip left at 8am the next morning. Little did I know how much fun I was in for....
Pictures: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Vietnam?h=71f111
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Tiger Leaping Gorge: Part 2
READ THE POST BELOW FIRST!!!!
The next morning we had planned to wake up early to watch the sunrise, yet shortly realized it was coming up on our side of the canyon and wouldn’t fully expose itself until later in the day. While waiting, we all read enjoying the peace that only a small, secluded mountain village can provide. The lifestyle these people, the Naxi people, live are remarkable. I kept thinking to myself, someone actually hiked in here with no trails and said, “Ya, we can make a living here.” I mean, the land is steep and hardly accessible (at least it use to be). They wake up with the crow of a rooster and perform the days’ chores as if it were the 1900’s. The farming techniques they use still require a horse drawn hoe. And of course, the engineering marvel of how they utilize tiers on such slopes to cultivate rice and other commodities is notable. After watching another picture perfect sunrise (p. 161-180) we ate breakfast and set off for Sean’s. Everybody was in a great mood which would make the trek even more pleasant.
Along the way we passed a small waterfall that at the time was pretty cool. That is until we came upon a giant gouge in the canyon wall. We continued climbing high and finally came to the waterfall we had been hearing for some time. The path opened up to two pools where the waterfall was flowing. Of course my immediate reaction was, “We’re swimming!” So naturally I busted out the most important piece of equipment to any hiker, a Spedo, and was ready to jump right in. I made the mistake of testing the water, which was every bit as cold as the ice-baths I use to enjoy after track practice. As everybody else dropped into their skivvies (while maintaining decency), I lay out to catch some rays and warm up before making the plunge. We took some photos, giggling the whole time, and then played around in the water. We were like kids again climbing over rocks, dancing to stay warm between plunges, escaping the realities of life… but then again, what is reality? I’m unemployed (for another month), supporting myself, traveling, and loving life. I pray for those stuck in NY offices working 80 hour weeks. They can have it; no amount of money is worth sacrificing doing that which you love. And don’t tell me they love wearing ties and stagnant office environment because it’s not human.
As we soaked in the rays, smiles stretching from ear to ear, I couldn’t help but think of how blessed I was. Little did I know, it would only continue.
We men in the group started to get antsy and ready to move along. So we pressed on while the girls laid out a while longer. If you asked me where the trail was going next, I never would have guessed where it went. Straight uphill we literally climbed, hand and foot. We passed through a spectacular bamboo portion that gave comfort; if you fell, you’d be caught by the dense bamboo. Other places were a little hairier and definitely steep! We reached the summit and could stair down 1,000 feet to the pools below… crazy! At the top was a field of boulders that we decided to hide behind and scare the girls as they followed. We got ‘em pretty good and continued on. Next, we ran into a young man who was tending a goat and its newborn baby. When I say newborn, the little goat had literally been born that day! I couldn’t believe my eyes and all I could think about was how miraculous God is. It was another highlight, watching this newborn creature and its first moments of life that I’ll never forget.
We plundered down the hill, feeling the soreness in our bones, ready for some good food and rest. We finally made it to the low rode having completed the high trail. We were pumped to reach Sean’s despite taking a whole lot longer than we thought. There was no way we could have done that hike all in the day before.
Sean’s is the most popular place in the gorge for it was the first GH to open 26 years ago. Heavily advertised with yellow arrows and encouraging notes along the way, it’s really hard to miss. We arrived to meet Sean’s three daughters who were running the place for him at the time. They confirmed the unfortunate news that we had heard earlier about Sean. Sean (a man with major skin disorder and one arm) and his son-in-law were imprisoned in Tibet while trying to recover his [Sean’s] deceased wife’s body. She had passed in an unfortunate hiking accident there. His daughters came home to run the GH and the one had not seen her husband for a month. With the little communication that they had, they knew that he was suppose to be home sometime that night; sure enough, he walked in just after dark. The look on the wife’s face was priceless as they family rejoiced around the long lost husband.
We felt guilty as our dinner orders were still coming from the kitchen as he arrived, but then again we were starving from a long hike. We enjoyed the fire pit they had and gazed at the stars for some time. The stars were plentiful until the fullness of the moon overtook them. It was another perfect evening with good friends, good food, and good accommodations. We were all set to get a ride out the next morning (in order to make our train home) and hit the sack early, once again.
The next morning we gathered our things and waited to ride with one of the daughters out of the gorge. We took another ‘mian bao che’ along the low rode up to the first construction point. We knew we had to walk around certain areas to get to the other side where another mini-bread-loaf-car would pick us up, but we had no idea we would soon find ourselves clinging for literal dear life. There had been a few landslides and the rode was withering. So they were blasting out rock to reconstruct the road and also clear the rubble from the landslides. The road at the first point we had come to had been completely wiped out due to landslide (p. 288). We crossed one at a time, me going first, excited from the adrenaline that began to flow through my veins. I followed a local step for step as excitement turned to pure fear and focus. Once on the landslide, I realized both the consequences and vitality of each step. Loose gravel was not a good sign but faith alone pushed me on. One false move and you were tumbling to the river below with nothing to stop you. My heart was beating out of my chest as I reached the other side and let out a holler of excitement. I was alive! Ok ok, maybe it wasn’t that dramatic but it for sure makes you consider the value of life. We would make this kind of maneuver two or three times more. One of the washed out points required a parkour type maneuver that everybody actually handled well. People have died in this canyon before (without the help of landslides and blasting dynamite) and I can’t help but think of how fortunate we were to have all made it out without much more than a scratch (and a bit of dust).
Once to the other side we had some smooth transportation back into the town of Lijiang, and then again down to Dali. We had made our train with time to spare. The week had been perfect; we had hiked arguably one of the prettiest hikes in China. Although I’ve only been here one month, I can’t imagine anything grander than the Tiger Leaping Gorge, save Everest itself.
Now safely back in Kunming, I feel refreshed and spiritually enlightened. You don’t realize how much world there really is out there until you explore it for yourself. And when I do, I realize more and more the magnificence of God… He is everywhere and in everything! I feel blessed to be here, and am grateful everyday for His presence, even on the other side of the world.
For more on Tiger Leaping Gorge:
http://www.tigerleapinggorge.com/enter.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_Leaping_Gorge
The next morning we had planned to wake up early to watch the sunrise, yet shortly realized it was coming up on our side of the canyon and wouldn’t fully expose itself until later in the day. While waiting, we all read enjoying the peace that only a small, secluded mountain village can provide. The lifestyle these people, the Naxi people, live are remarkable. I kept thinking to myself, someone actually hiked in here with no trails and said, “Ya, we can make a living here.” I mean, the land is steep and hardly accessible (at least it use to be). They wake up with the crow of a rooster and perform the days’ chores as if it were the 1900’s. The farming techniques they use still require a horse drawn hoe. And of course, the engineering marvel of how they utilize tiers on such slopes to cultivate rice and other commodities is notable. After watching another picture perfect sunrise (p. 161-180) we ate breakfast and set off for Sean’s. Everybody was in a great mood which would make the trek even more pleasant.
Along the way we passed a small waterfall that at the time was pretty cool. That is until we came upon a giant gouge in the canyon wall. We continued climbing high and finally came to the waterfall we had been hearing for some time. The path opened up to two pools where the waterfall was flowing. Of course my immediate reaction was, “We’re swimming!” So naturally I busted out the most important piece of equipment to any hiker, a Spedo, and was ready to jump right in. I made the mistake of testing the water, which was every bit as cold as the ice-baths I use to enjoy after track practice. As everybody else dropped into their skivvies (while maintaining decency), I lay out to catch some rays and warm up before making the plunge. We took some photos, giggling the whole time, and then played around in the water. We were like kids again climbing over rocks, dancing to stay warm between plunges, escaping the realities of life… but then again, what is reality? I’m unemployed (for another month), supporting myself, traveling, and loving life. I pray for those stuck in NY offices working 80 hour weeks. They can have it; no amount of money is worth sacrificing doing that which you love. And don’t tell me they love wearing ties and stagnant office environment because it’s not human.
As we soaked in the rays, smiles stretching from ear to ear, I couldn’t help but think of how blessed I was. Little did I know, it would only continue.
We men in the group started to get antsy and ready to move along. So we pressed on while the girls laid out a while longer. If you asked me where the trail was going next, I never would have guessed where it went. Straight uphill we literally climbed, hand and foot. We passed through a spectacular bamboo portion that gave comfort; if you fell, you’d be caught by the dense bamboo. Other places were a little hairier and definitely steep! We reached the summit and could stair down 1,000 feet to the pools below… crazy! At the top was a field of boulders that we decided to hide behind and scare the girls as they followed. We got ‘em pretty good and continued on. Next, we ran into a young man who was tending a goat and its newborn baby. When I say newborn, the little goat had literally been born that day! I couldn’t believe my eyes and all I could think about was how miraculous God is. It was another highlight, watching this newborn creature and its first moments of life that I’ll never forget.
We plundered down the hill, feeling the soreness in our bones, ready for some good food and rest. We finally made it to the low rode having completed the high trail. We were pumped to reach Sean’s despite taking a whole lot longer than we thought. There was no way we could have done that hike all in the day before.
Sean’s is the most popular place in the gorge for it was the first GH to open 26 years ago. Heavily advertised with yellow arrows and encouraging notes along the way, it’s really hard to miss. We arrived to meet Sean’s three daughters who were running the place for him at the time. They confirmed the unfortunate news that we had heard earlier about Sean. Sean (a man with major skin disorder and one arm) and his son-in-law were imprisoned in Tibet while trying to recover his [Sean’s] deceased wife’s body. She had passed in an unfortunate hiking accident there. His daughters came home to run the GH and the one had not seen her husband for a month. With the little communication that they had, they knew that he was suppose to be home sometime that night; sure enough, he walked in just after dark. The look on the wife’s face was priceless as they family rejoiced around the long lost husband.
We felt guilty as our dinner orders were still coming from the kitchen as he arrived, but then again we were starving from a long hike. We enjoyed the fire pit they had and gazed at the stars for some time. The stars were plentiful until the fullness of the moon overtook them. It was another perfect evening with good friends, good food, and good accommodations. We were all set to get a ride out the next morning (in order to make our train home) and hit the sack early, once again.
The next morning we gathered our things and waited to ride with one of the daughters out of the gorge. We took another ‘mian bao che’ along the low rode up to the first construction point. We knew we had to walk around certain areas to get to the other side where another mini-bread-loaf-car would pick us up, but we had no idea we would soon find ourselves clinging for literal dear life. There had been a few landslides and the rode was withering. So they were blasting out rock to reconstruct the road and also clear the rubble from the landslides. The road at the first point we had come to had been completely wiped out due to landslide (p. 288). We crossed one at a time, me going first, excited from the adrenaline that began to flow through my veins. I followed a local step for step as excitement turned to pure fear and focus. Once on the landslide, I realized both the consequences and vitality of each step. Loose gravel was not a good sign but faith alone pushed me on. One false move and you were tumbling to the river below with nothing to stop you. My heart was beating out of my chest as I reached the other side and let out a holler of excitement. I was alive! Ok ok, maybe it wasn’t that dramatic but it for sure makes you consider the value of life. We would make this kind of maneuver two or three times more. One of the washed out points required a parkour type maneuver that everybody actually handled well. People have died in this canyon before (without the help of landslides and blasting dynamite) and I can’t help but think of how fortunate we were to have all made it out without much more than a scratch (and a bit of dust).
Once to the other side we had some smooth transportation back into the town of Lijiang, and then again down to Dali. We had made our train with time to spare. The week had been perfect; we had hiked arguably one of the prettiest hikes in China. Although I’ve only been here one month, I can’t imagine anything grander than the Tiger Leaping Gorge, save Everest itself.
Now safely back in Kunming, I feel refreshed and spiritually enlightened. You don’t realize how much world there really is out there until you explore it for yourself. And when I do, I realize more and more the magnificence of God… He is everywhere and in everything! I feel blessed to be here, and am grateful everyday for His presence, even on the other side of the world.
For more on Tiger Leaping Gorge:
http://www.tigerleapinggorge.com/enter.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_Leaping_Gorge
Tiger Leaping Gorge: Part I
This is going to be a long post and for great reason; if you do not desire to read my entire description of the past week, I don’t blame you. I’ve split it into two sections. Look at the pictures simultaneously for I reference them throughout.
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Tiger%20Leaping%20Gorge?h=7ae598
And even though neither words nor pictures can possible capture my past adventure, they’ll at least give you a mere glimpse into the splendor that China has to offer.
My friends and I spent a marvelous Thanksgiving that, thanks to their culinary skills, honestly rivaled any meal cooked that day in the US: glazed turkey, scallop potatoes, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, macaroni, green beans, cranberry sauce, even two apple pies and a cheesecake lined the table for a feast fit for kings. Did I mention the potatoes? We enjoyed ourselves thoroughly; everyone was excited to be together for a traditional turkey day, yet I was even more excited for the adventure that followed…
Stephanie, Rachael, my roommates Chiara and Ben, and myself had all prepared to venture northwest through Dali and on to Lijiang. Just north of Lijiang lies the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a place I had researched heavily and was one of the main attractions I had been dying to see. We had an overnight train to Dali and arrived to see the sun peek its head over the mountain range to the east. We were in for a beautiful day! Dali resembles Denver even more so than Kunming. The city lines Erhai Lake, which squeezes its inhabitants up against the primary mountain range to the west. We continued on the train up the east side of the city taking in the picturesque view of the lake that lay flat at the foot of the mountains like a loyal dog to his owner’s bed at night (pictures 14 & 16). Another three hours later we had arrived in Lijiang where I was able to catch my first glimpse of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain who stood every bit of 5,596m (18,360ft). We found a hostel located in the Old Town part of Lijiang to set ourselves up for the actual hike the next day. Old Town is very quaint preserving the classic Chinese architecture and cobblestone streets/alleyways. However, it was a tourist trap. I still enjoyed it. We explored the city a little and made preparations for transportation to the gorge. After a good meal, we hit the hay early in anticipation of an early rise and rigorous day of hiking to follow in the morning.
The city was still sleeping with all of its lights turned off when we snuck out. On the bus we had met a solo traveler from the States who would simply fuse into our group, happily so. The day provided a slight overcast of clouds that we would end up being thankful for later. When we arrived at the trail head, we were informed that the gorge was closed for repairs among the lower road. The construction had started on December 1st… I looked at my watch which told me it was December 3rd and I just kept tapping it as if it were broken and this was some kind of joke. We talked to a local who informed us that because of the construction, they can’t charge tourists to enter the gorge (the high trail was still perfectly fine). So he offered to drive us passed the gate and drop us at any point up until the construction. This worked out beautifully since we paid him less than we would have paid the park entry fee. So past the guards we zoomed in the ‘mian bao che’ which literally stands for ‘bread loaf car’ because of its shape.
Once in, it was nothing but adventure! The hike started with a fairly intense climb straight up the mountain to the high trail; we traversed the 24 bends successfully and continued on. The clouds began to break up at the peak allowing the sun to warm us. It in fact made us layer off. The sun put on a marvelous display as it pierced through the clouds casting constantly changing shadows on the jagged mountains. I had to pick myself off the ground several times from tripping over my dropped jaw. I mean, the Grand Tetons of Jackson are spectacular, but this place was incredible! You be the judge, check out the pics.
After several hours of hiking and picture taking, we had reached the Halfway Guest House and decided to stay there for the rest of the night instead of pressing on to Sean’s GH. It would be the best decision we would make all trip. We were the only ones in the whole gorge as far as we were concerned. We hadn’t seen but a couple of folks the entire day and they were leaving. So with the place to ourselves we dropped our bags in the $4 bedrooms (pictures 186/187… p. 140 through these are of Halfway House. P. 149 is the view from the squatty potty). We watched the sun set itself down for the night, kissing the other side of the gorge with its beams of light. We had a few beers on ‘Inspiration Deck’ and then ate dinner downstairs for it had grown colder. With a few beers in us we would soon return topside, now numb to the cold, and danced into the night under a full moon. It felt good to be outdoors again, away from civilization, young and free, doing what we loved to do and without a worry in the world. We expressed our joyfulness without holding back by howling at the moon with the dogs in the canyon below. It was the perfect end to a spectacular day of hiking.
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Tiger%20Leaping%20Gorge?h=7ae598
And even though neither words nor pictures can possible capture my past adventure, they’ll at least give you a mere glimpse into the splendor that China has to offer.
My friends and I spent a marvelous Thanksgiving that, thanks to their culinary skills, honestly rivaled any meal cooked that day in the US: glazed turkey, scallop potatoes, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, macaroni, green beans, cranberry sauce, even two apple pies and a cheesecake lined the table for a feast fit for kings. Did I mention the potatoes? We enjoyed ourselves thoroughly; everyone was excited to be together for a traditional turkey day, yet I was even more excited for the adventure that followed…
Stephanie, Rachael, my roommates Chiara and Ben, and myself had all prepared to venture northwest through Dali and on to Lijiang. Just north of Lijiang lies the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a place I had researched heavily and was one of the main attractions I had been dying to see. We had an overnight train to Dali and arrived to see the sun peek its head over the mountain range to the east. We were in for a beautiful day! Dali resembles Denver even more so than Kunming. The city lines Erhai Lake, which squeezes its inhabitants up against the primary mountain range to the west. We continued on the train up the east side of the city taking in the picturesque view of the lake that lay flat at the foot of the mountains like a loyal dog to his owner’s bed at night (pictures 14 & 16). Another three hours later we had arrived in Lijiang where I was able to catch my first glimpse of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain who stood every bit of 5,596m (18,360ft). We found a hostel located in the Old Town part of Lijiang to set ourselves up for the actual hike the next day. Old Town is very quaint preserving the classic Chinese architecture and cobblestone streets/alleyways. However, it was a tourist trap. I still enjoyed it. We explored the city a little and made preparations for transportation to the gorge. After a good meal, we hit the hay early in anticipation of an early rise and rigorous day of hiking to follow in the morning.
The city was still sleeping with all of its lights turned off when we snuck out. On the bus we had met a solo traveler from the States who would simply fuse into our group, happily so. The day provided a slight overcast of clouds that we would end up being thankful for later. When we arrived at the trail head, we were informed that the gorge was closed for repairs among the lower road. The construction had started on December 1st… I looked at my watch which told me it was December 3rd and I just kept tapping it as if it were broken and this was some kind of joke. We talked to a local who informed us that because of the construction, they can’t charge tourists to enter the gorge (the high trail was still perfectly fine). So he offered to drive us passed the gate and drop us at any point up until the construction. This worked out beautifully since we paid him less than we would have paid the park entry fee. So past the guards we zoomed in the ‘mian bao che’ which literally stands for ‘bread loaf car’ because of its shape.
Once in, it was nothing but adventure! The hike started with a fairly intense climb straight up the mountain to the high trail; we traversed the 24 bends successfully and continued on. The clouds began to break up at the peak allowing the sun to warm us. It in fact made us layer off. The sun put on a marvelous display as it pierced through the clouds casting constantly changing shadows on the jagged mountains. I had to pick myself off the ground several times from tripping over my dropped jaw. I mean, the Grand Tetons of Jackson are spectacular, but this place was incredible! You be the judge, check out the pics.
After several hours of hiking and picture taking, we had reached the Halfway Guest House and decided to stay there for the rest of the night instead of pressing on to Sean’s GH. It would be the best decision we would make all trip. We were the only ones in the whole gorge as far as we were concerned. We hadn’t seen but a couple of folks the entire day and they were leaving. So with the place to ourselves we dropped our bags in the $4 bedrooms (pictures 186/187… p. 140 through these are of Halfway House. P. 149 is the view from the squatty potty). We watched the sun set itself down for the night, kissing the other side of the gorge with its beams of light. We had a few beers on ‘Inspiration Deck’ and then ate dinner downstairs for it had grown colder. With a few beers in us we would soon return topside, now numb to the cold, and danced into the night under a full moon. It felt good to be outdoors again, away from civilization, young and free, doing what we loved to do and without a worry in the world. We expressed our joyfulness without holding back by howling at the moon with the dogs in the canyon below. It was the perfect end to a spectacular day of hiking.
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