Monday, December 28, 2009
A Kunming Christmas
We celebrated Italian style making a large feast of pasta and pizza, homemade of course. We all joined together Christmas Eve for the celebration and had a great time. The highlight of the night was our Secret Santa exchange, which I had actually never done before. We all gave and received awesome gifts; gifts of love and meaning. We also had a few humorous poetry recitations, played charades, and enjoyed the many unique talents that our group has to offer. It was a festive evening full of joy and high spirits.
Christmas morning my roommate Chiara and I attended a local church service that was interesting to see. Although it was all in Mandarin, it was nice to be in a place of welcoming spirits. Some of the music they played were of hymns that any Christian would recognize; it's incredible how religion is such a unifying theme in our lives. It doesn't matter what side of the globe you are on or what language you speak, the foundational beliefs are the same. It was welcoming to know that there are some local Kunminger's who have the same values and morals as I do despite living in a controlling environment (Chinese gov.) surrounded by popular Buddhist tradition. The service was 2.5 hours of which we stayed 1.5. Ok ok, forgive me for ducking out early but it was a bit dry. Despite this fact I've never had Christmas feel so alive in my heart. I am overwhelmed with joy this time of year and am grateful for the birth of my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ. It is the comfort He provides that allows me to overcome the homesickness... and trust me, I wouldn't rather be anywhere but Littleton, CO this time of year!
Christmas day was fun as well as we watched 'It's a Wonderful Life'. Little did I know that the movie would have a profound effect on me later that evening. I was invited to a work party at a school I'm going to be teaching at this coming spring. On the way to the party, I had my iPhone stolen out of a zipped up jacket pocket on the public bus. I think I just missed the guy in action since I check my valuables every 3-5 minutes, literally. I freaked out for two seconds then calmed my nerves and tried to trouble shoot the issue but it was too late. I had gotten off the bus to look for someone suspicious who might have just napped my most prized possession. After the buses cleared I knew it was long gone. A nice gentlemen saw my bewilderment and I was able to explain the situation. He called the cops for me which was actually a worse idea. I couldn't call my phone since I didn't know my own number so I was helpless. I sat with the cops for 4 hours waiting to fill out a stupid form that will do nothing but add another number to the theft victim list for 2009.
While waiting a young women had come into the police office and had here laptop stolen out of here carrying case. She was able to put up a struggle but still was robbed. It didn't make me feel any better but at least I wasn't alone. After a long night at the police station and having missed my party, I just went home to rest.
The next morning was fine but after picking up an old-school Nokia to replace my iPhone, I came down with the 24 stomach flu which had been going around. I had a horrendous afternoon. That night I listened to the Rock Church's latest sermon that couldn't have been more appropriately titled as "Why do bad things happen to good people". It was very lifting; Miles quoted Job who at one point loses all of his wealth and worldly possessions at once. So what does he do? He strips naked and prays. He says he came into this world naked and everything that he'd ever owned belongs to God. We are simply managers of everything we have. The devil may temp and try us, but the kind of faith that Job displays is the kind of faith that I would like to have someday. The kind where no matter what happens, we never blame God and always worship Him for we know that each day is a gift no matter what. And now that I'm healthy again, I seek to live every day with such faith.
That's my Kunming Christmas story; definitely one I'll never forget!
Monday, December 21, 2009
'Nam-Halong Bay
Eight AM came too early but I was amped for the trip. Down in the lobby we all gathered like lost sheep. Finally Viet, our hysterical Vietnamese tour guide, showed us to our bus. We reached Halong Bay after a short four hours and caught a skiff to the Jolly Roger, our sleeper boat for the night. We punched out of Halong Bay for a more secluded spot among the many islands there. We ate lunch on the way and got to know each other even better. With a group of 9 Aussies, 6 Brits, 3 New Zealanders, a German, a Pilipino, an Irish, and a girl from Copenhagen (not to mention the older crowd of 5) how could we not have fun? As soon as the boat anchored down in our gorgeous bay for the night, we busted out the Spedo’s for a swim. We had a blast launching ourselves off of the boat before going on short kayak and enjoyed the spectacular sunset that took place thereafter. Only a few hours into the trip and I was already in heaven! Life on the seas isn’t bad and I definitely could spend some time living on a boat.
Since it began to cool off, we stayed inside most of the night drinking and having a good time. I couldn’t believe that despite our well represented group from around the world, the common denominator would be drinking games. King’s Cup was a favorite followed by the box game to which pictures are worth a thousand words of explanation. Basically, we had fun :) Most of us crashed at a decent hour (like 3) but felt the effects of sleep deprivation the next day.
Breakfast was at 8am but was very nice to get up for. After that we parted with the Jolly Roger in search for the private island where we would stay. The first thought that came to mind when we pulled up to the island was a clip from the movie “The Beach” where Leonardo DeCaprio finds a secret civilization that lives on a paradisaical lagoon. It had a nice stretch of beach, volleyball net, rock climbing set up, and to top it off an old police boat turned wake boarding boat; heaven. The sun wasn’t shining but that didn’t damper my spirits. We settled into our huts and waited around for lunch while exploring the place a bit. Some chose rock climbing as their ‘activity’ while others waited for water sports. The boat was busted but within a few hours they had fixed it. There was extra room on the tubes so when it came time to tube I was all-in. There were four of us spread evenly among two tubes. The two girls on the other tube had never been before and were in for a ride while my tube partner and I were experts. However, our driver was a maniac Vietnamese ex-Nascar driver and had us in the water in no time. After toning it down a notch we splashed around and had some fun bouncing between tubes.
We got back and switched personnel for wake boarding. The first group were decent, only one of whom had done it before. I was in the second group with two beginners as well. The two English blokes running the joint were dumb as bricks and just as thoughtless. They gave little instruction so I tried to help where I could. Finally it was my turn to which I enjoyed supremely. I never thought I’d find myself behind a boat in Vietnam doing what I love most. It was refreshing to get my water sport fix even if just for a bit. We got back onto the island, chilled to the bone, but were able to warm up with some coffee (which by the way is delicious in Vietnam). We played some games like volleyball and freeze tag to warm ourselves up and thoroughly enjoyed the never ending humor of one another. The Brits were very sarcastic and witty (I called them the ‘funny boys’) and all were good sports with the jokes. My favorite was Mickey, who had a lazy eye, long curly hair, and an accent thicker than Fat Bastard himself. He took most of the jokes (deserving so) and was non-stop entertainment with his random comments and un-athletic attempts at volleyball. He was a good man but easy to tease.
We enjoyed a nice BBQ dinner consisting of various sea foods under candlelight. The generator had provided its last flicker of light just in time to get dinner cooked, but failed to provide us with electricity for the rest of the night. I was perfectly fine with the primitive state. It was very peaceful and invigorating to get back to the basics on some primitive island in the middle of nowhere. We made a bonfire to keep warm and sat around telling stories, playing guitar, singing improvised versions of whatever, and of course drinking. We were in our own world of paradise and for a few moments, everything just slipped away. Everyone was tired and for the most part, went to bed early. We would have another early morning the next day. As I fell asleep to the sounds of lapping waves on the beach, I couldn’t help but thank my lucky stars for everything I was experiencing. I was making international friends, enjoying the sports and activities I love, and most of all, giving thanks for the ability to do them all. I am a blessed man and am forever grateful for all that He has provided me with.
The meal gong had rung aloud around 7:30 and we stumbled out of our huts. We ate breakfast and said fairly well to this island of paradise. It was a quiet ride back as we reflected how much fun we all had together. Once we returned to the hostel, we reluctantly split to find arrangements for the night but had planned to meet up later. We had just grown that close on the trip. I unfortunately had to split that night back to the border but was able to have dinner with the crew one last time. We exchanged information and hugged good-bye with heavy hearts. The trip was short but sweet and I can only hope to keep in touch with some of my new-found friends. My adventure back would be long but the recent memory of good times would bring peace to my heart. Traveling is a deep passion of mine; its one of those rites of passage for anyone who is a human being. It’s human nature to explore, meet new people, and push oneself to their limits. This past trip had provided all three and has further energized my soul to live life to the fullest.
Pictures: See link in post below
'Nam-Hanoi
In order to be in Kunming for Christmas, I took a pre-emptive exit from China and headed down to Hanoi, Vietnam. With my visa still limited to 30-day stays in China, it’s been a pain having to plan such trips but a blessing for forcing me to travel.
After an overnight bus to the border and an eight hour train ride to Hanoi, I was pretty exhausted. Sitting close to me on the train was the cutest little bundle of life, a 5 year old Vietnamese girl. Her smile just warmed my heart as I played little games with her. Despite her perpetual smile, I failed to get a good photo which just made me mad. Owell, I'll never forget having fun with my new little friend.
Though drained from traveling, my spirits would be lifted at the excitement of a new city that was buzzing with energy. The Vietnamese soccer team had just beaten Singapore in a big tournament game and every Vietnamese citizen was letting the world know. It was madness! The streets were lined with motorbikes, cars, trucks, and people. People were on top of cars, on top of trucks, and even standing on motorbikes as the zoomed through the streets; simply mad! All were wearing red and waving the Vietnamese red flag. It was refreshing to see a country’s people in such support of their nation and how sport can bring people together. I cruised around the city sampling the local beers and trying different foods which were good but not so different from that which I’ve had in China.
The hostel I checked into is called Hanoi Backpacker’s Hostel and is ran by Aussies. One of few European style hostels, this place was epic. It was teeming with interesting people from all over the globe, some of which I would meet later, but for the first night I was pooped. I crashed early in hopes of exploring the entire city the next day.
I was up and out by 9:30am which would give me plenty of time to tour the city. I had my free breakfast and signed up for the Hostel’s Halong Bay tour. I met some girls who were signing up as well and they convinced me that the three day trip was worth the extra money versus the two day trip; they were right. So with that business taken care off, I set off with my tour map to see the sites.
First on the list was the Hoa Lo Prison, better known as the “Hanoi Hilton” as the American POW’s of the Vietnam War called it. It was intriguing from a historical perspective but honestly nothing to write home about. It was interesting to see the Vietnamese bias come through the information placards and one particular video that made the Vietnamese look like some Goliath force against the US. There were also many tributes to John McCain who was held there. From there I walked towards the Opera House and a couple of museums. I chuckled as I saw the real Hanoi Hilton sitting next to the Opera House, right down the street from the Hao Lo Prison. I’m not the biggest fan of museums unless they are world renown so I simply passed them by.
I enjoyed observing the culture of the city streets. The motorbike is by far the most popular means of transportation in the city. The street is so dense with motorbikes that it makes crossing the street a life and death obstacle; one that I actually enjoyed because it was like Frogger in real life. They are actually really good about swerving pedestrians and after awhile the task isn’t so daunting.
The French had a large influence in Vietnam before it became torn apart; therefore, many buildings had European style architecture that gave the city some charm. Most buildings are also very narrow, yet tall and steep. This is because the government taxes you based on how much sidewalk space the front of your building takes up. In the center of Old Quarter is a peaceful lake where you can find locals and foreigners alike taking in the scenery. The fast pace of the city was fun but after a day of walking around, you simply get sick of it, literally. The fumes from all the exhaust were overwhelming so it was nice to rest out on the large lawn in front of Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum. I eventually looped back around to the hostel around mid-afternoon. It gave me time to search for a pair of sandals in preparation for the three day tour where my feet would either be in sand or water (and seriously, who wears shoes to the beach?).
It’s always fun bargaining prices for stuff. My sandals would be no different. I put them on immediately for it was very humid and warm and socks just didn’t fit the bill. I toted my shoes on the way back and stopped to pick up a delicious sandwich. I also sampled some interesting soup. Meanwhile, I had to set my bag of shoes down to handle my sandwich and soup and then got distracted talking to a nice German guy. I ended up leaving my bag of shoes at the sandwich place as I walked and talked with the German guy! But didn’t mind for they were old and falling apart. I love moments when you realize your own stupidity because it sets you back on the ground. Nobody’s perfect and I’m no exception.
That night I would meet a nice Aussie couple and enjoyed a few drinks with them. I headed off to bed early again for our trip left at 8am the next morning. Little did I know how much fun I was in for....
Pictures: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Vietnam?h=71f111
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Tiger Leaping Gorge: Part 2
The next morning we had planned to wake up early to watch the sunrise, yet shortly realized it was coming up on our side of the canyon and wouldn’t fully expose itself until later in the day. While waiting, we all read enjoying the peace that only a small, secluded mountain village can provide. The lifestyle these people, the Naxi people, live are remarkable. I kept thinking to myself, someone actually hiked in here with no trails and said, “Ya, we can make a living here.” I mean, the land is steep and hardly accessible (at least it use to be). They wake up with the crow of a rooster and perform the days’ chores as if it were the 1900’s. The farming techniques they use still require a horse drawn hoe. And of course, the engineering marvel of how they utilize tiers on such slopes to cultivate rice and other commodities is notable. After watching another picture perfect sunrise (p. 161-180) we ate breakfast and set off for Sean’s. Everybody was in a great mood which would make the trek even more pleasant.
Along the way we passed a small waterfall that at the time was pretty cool. That is until we came upon a giant gouge in the canyon wall. We continued climbing high and finally came to the waterfall we had been hearing for some time. The path opened up to two pools where the waterfall was flowing. Of course my immediate reaction was, “We’re swimming!” So naturally I busted out the most important piece of equipment to any hiker, a Spedo, and was ready to jump right in. I made the mistake of testing the water, which was every bit as cold as the ice-baths I use to enjoy after track practice. As everybody else dropped into their skivvies (while maintaining decency), I lay out to catch some rays and warm up before making the plunge. We took some photos, giggling the whole time, and then played around in the water. We were like kids again climbing over rocks, dancing to stay warm between plunges, escaping the realities of life… but then again, what is reality? I’m unemployed (for another month), supporting myself, traveling, and loving life. I pray for those stuck in NY offices working 80 hour weeks. They can have it; no amount of money is worth sacrificing doing that which you love. And don’t tell me they love wearing ties and stagnant office environment because it’s not human.
As we soaked in the rays, smiles stretching from ear to ear, I couldn’t help but think of how blessed I was. Little did I know, it would only continue.
We men in the group started to get antsy and ready to move along. So we pressed on while the girls laid out a while longer. If you asked me where the trail was going next, I never would have guessed where it went. Straight uphill we literally climbed, hand and foot. We passed through a spectacular bamboo portion that gave comfort; if you fell, you’d be caught by the dense bamboo. Other places were a little hairier and definitely steep! We reached the summit and could stair down 1,000 feet to the pools below… crazy! At the top was a field of boulders that we decided to hide behind and scare the girls as they followed. We got ‘em pretty good and continued on. Next, we ran into a young man who was tending a goat and its newborn baby. When I say newborn, the little goat had literally been born that day! I couldn’t believe my eyes and all I could think about was how miraculous God is. It was another highlight, watching this newborn creature and its first moments of life that I’ll never forget.
We plundered down the hill, feeling the soreness in our bones, ready for some good food and rest. We finally made it to the low rode having completed the high trail. We were pumped to reach Sean’s despite taking a whole lot longer than we thought. There was no way we could have done that hike all in the day before.
Sean’s is the most popular place in the gorge for it was the first GH to open 26 years ago. Heavily advertised with yellow arrows and encouraging notes along the way, it’s really hard to miss. We arrived to meet Sean’s three daughters who were running the place for him at the time. They confirmed the unfortunate news that we had heard earlier about Sean. Sean (a man with major skin disorder and one arm) and his son-in-law were imprisoned in Tibet while trying to recover his [Sean’s] deceased wife’s body. She had passed in an unfortunate hiking accident there. His daughters came home to run the GH and the one had not seen her husband for a month. With the little communication that they had, they knew that he was suppose to be home sometime that night; sure enough, he walked in just after dark. The look on the wife’s face was priceless as they family rejoiced around the long lost husband.
We felt guilty as our dinner orders were still coming from the kitchen as he arrived, but then again we were starving from a long hike. We enjoyed the fire pit they had and gazed at the stars for some time. The stars were plentiful until the fullness of the moon overtook them. It was another perfect evening with good friends, good food, and good accommodations. We were all set to get a ride out the next morning (in order to make our train home) and hit the sack early, once again.
The next morning we gathered our things and waited to ride with one of the daughters out of the gorge. We took another ‘mian bao che’ along the low rode up to the first construction point. We knew we had to walk around certain areas to get to the other side where another mini-bread-loaf-car would pick us up, but we had no idea we would soon find ourselves clinging for literal dear life. There had been a few landslides and the rode was withering. So they were blasting out rock to reconstruct the road and also clear the rubble from the landslides. The road at the first point we had come to had been completely wiped out due to landslide (p. 288). We crossed one at a time, me going first, excited from the adrenaline that began to flow through my veins. I followed a local step for step as excitement turned to pure fear and focus. Once on the landslide, I realized both the consequences and vitality of each step. Loose gravel was not a good sign but faith alone pushed me on. One false move and you were tumbling to the river below with nothing to stop you. My heart was beating out of my chest as I reached the other side and let out a holler of excitement. I was alive! Ok ok, maybe it wasn’t that dramatic but it for sure makes you consider the value of life. We would make this kind of maneuver two or three times more. One of the washed out points required a parkour type maneuver that everybody actually handled well. People have died in this canyon before (without the help of landslides and blasting dynamite) and I can’t help but think of how fortunate we were to have all made it out without much more than a scratch (and a bit of dust).
Once to the other side we had some smooth transportation back into the town of Lijiang, and then again down to Dali. We had made our train with time to spare. The week had been perfect; we had hiked arguably one of the prettiest hikes in China. Although I’ve only been here one month, I can’t imagine anything grander than the Tiger Leaping Gorge, save Everest itself.
Now safely back in Kunming, I feel refreshed and spiritually enlightened. You don’t realize how much world there really is out there until you explore it for yourself. And when I do, I realize more and more the magnificence of God… He is everywhere and in everything! I feel blessed to be here, and am grateful everyday for His presence, even on the other side of the world.
For more on Tiger Leaping Gorge:
http://www.tigerleapinggorge.com/enter.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiger_Leaping_Gorge
Tiger Leaping Gorge: Part I
http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Tiger%20Leaping%20Gorge?h=7ae598
And even though neither words nor pictures can possible capture my past adventure, they’ll at least give you a mere glimpse into the splendor that China has to offer.
My friends and I spent a marvelous Thanksgiving that, thanks to their culinary skills, honestly rivaled any meal cooked that day in the US: glazed turkey, scallop potatoes, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, macaroni, green beans, cranberry sauce, even two apple pies and a cheesecake lined the table for a feast fit for kings. Did I mention the potatoes? We enjoyed ourselves thoroughly; everyone was excited to be together for a traditional turkey day, yet I was even more excited for the adventure that followed…
Stephanie, Rachael, my roommates Chiara and Ben, and myself had all prepared to venture northwest through Dali and on to Lijiang. Just north of Lijiang lies the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a place I had researched heavily and was one of the main attractions I had been dying to see. We had an overnight train to Dali and arrived to see the sun peek its head over the mountain range to the east. We were in for a beautiful day! Dali resembles Denver even more so than Kunming. The city lines Erhai Lake, which squeezes its inhabitants up against the primary mountain range to the west. We continued on the train up the east side of the city taking in the picturesque view of the lake that lay flat at the foot of the mountains like a loyal dog to his owner’s bed at night (pictures 14 & 16). Another three hours later we had arrived in Lijiang where I was able to catch my first glimpse of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain who stood every bit of 5,596m (18,360ft). We found a hostel located in the Old Town part of Lijiang to set ourselves up for the actual hike the next day. Old Town is very quaint preserving the classic Chinese architecture and cobblestone streets/alleyways. However, it was a tourist trap. I still enjoyed it. We explored the city a little and made preparations for transportation to the gorge. After a good meal, we hit the hay early in anticipation of an early rise and rigorous day of hiking to follow in the morning.
The city was still sleeping with all of its lights turned off when we snuck out. On the bus we had met a solo traveler from the States who would simply fuse into our group, happily so. The day provided a slight overcast of clouds that we would end up being thankful for later. When we arrived at the trail head, we were informed that the gorge was closed for repairs among the lower road. The construction had started on December 1st… I looked at my watch which told me it was December 3rd and I just kept tapping it as if it were broken and this was some kind of joke. We talked to a local who informed us that because of the construction, they can’t charge tourists to enter the gorge (the high trail was still perfectly fine). So he offered to drive us passed the gate and drop us at any point up until the construction. This worked out beautifully since we paid him less than we would have paid the park entry fee. So past the guards we zoomed in the ‘mian bao che’ which literally stands for ‘bread loaf car’ because of its shape.
Once in, it was nothing but adventure! The hike started with a fairly intense climb straight up the mountain to the high trail; we traversed the 24 bends successfully and continued on. The clouds began to break up at the peak allowing the sun to warm us. It in fact made us layer off. The sun put on a marvelous display as it pierced through the clouds casting constantly changing shadows on the jagged mountains. I had to pick myself off the ground several times from tripping over my dropped jaw. I mean, the Grand Tetons of Jackson are spectacular, but this place was incredible! You be the judge, check out the pics.
After several hours of hiking and picture taking, we had reached the Halfway Guest House and decided to stay there for the rest of the night instead of pressing on to Sean’s GH. It would be the best decision we would make all trip. We were the only ones in the whole gorge as far as we were concerned. We hadn’t seen but a couple of folks the entire day and they were leaving. So with the place to ourselves we dropped our bags in the $4 bedrooms (pictures 186/187… p. 140 through these are of Halfway House. P. 149 is the view from the squatty potty). We watched the sun set itself down for the night, kissing the other side of the gorge with its beams of light. We had a few beers on ‘Inspiration Deck’ and then ate dinner downstairs for it had grown colder. With a few beers in us we would soon return topside, now numb to the cold, and danced into the night under a full moon. It felt good to be outdoors again, away from civilization, young and free, doing what we loved to do and without a worry in the world. We expressed our joyfulness without holding back by howling at the moon with the dogs in the canyon below. It was the perfect end to a spectacular day of hiking.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Pictures!!!
I wish I could make comments to explain pictures but at least you can see them, enjoy!
My arrival/Train ride: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Beijing-Kunming?h=d95750
Kunming (Green Lake Park where I live), Botanical Gardens, Shirlin (Stone Forest): http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Kunming-Stong%20Forest?h=236118
Camping Kunming (including Robotman!!!), Bamboo Temple: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Camping%20Kunming?h=74916b
Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Macau: http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/2688277/1/Hong%20Kong-Macau?h=10c444
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Hong Kong Adventure
With the visa that I was issued, I am required to leave the country every 30 days. This will all change once I get my working visa but for this first month I decided to head to Hong Kong since I’ve been dying to go there and it is relatively close.
I first met up with a friend from PLNU, Brandon Napoli, who has been working on his MBA in Guangzhou (a large city about an hour away from Hong Kong). He planned on joining me for my trip into HK and I was excited to have someone to travel with over my birthday. I arrived in Guangzhou, after spending all night on a train from Kunming, and made my way to the subway station to meet Brandon at the stop nearest his apartment. It was nice to see a familiar face and I was excited to see a new side of China. We went to the markets to do a little shopping, of which I refrained from purchasing anything although I needed to find a nice winter jacket. After shopping and touring the city a little, I crashed in on Brandon’s evening Mandarin class and met some very nice foreigners. We all enjoyed each other’s company but had to split to get some sleep for the adventure into HK the next day.
Brandon had a final in the morning, so I was able to get some rest. Therefore we didn’t leave until the afternoon but got into HK with enough time to walk around the city as the sun was setting. It was my birthday and what better way to celebrate than to enjoy a McDonald’s McFlurry while watching the city light show across the bay on HK island. There are several buildings that participate in the nightly event that simply show off a Vegas style light show that lasts maybe 15 minutes; nothing to wow the masses but none the less a beautiful sight; so vibrant and full of life. The same feeling I had when I first visited New York had come back to me. And even though both cities are very unique from each other, they also possess several similarities.
We explored HK Island the next day traveling to the south side at Stanley Market. It was fun to finally visit some of the places my Dad had talked about for so many years as a pilot traveling here. Now I know where all the DVD’s and North Face knock-offs come from. After a morning in Stanley, we came back to Central and hiked Victoria Peak. The tram ride would have taken 50 minutes after waiting in line; we hiked it in 45. As the lactic acid poured through my legs from the climb, I couldn’t help but break out the biggest smile for I have been anticipating this view for the longest time. I was ecstatic to see the birds-eye view of the city in person. HK is a fascinating place that stems from British rule and has now grown into its own being. If you think HK is China, think again. Although Beijing claims ‘one country, two systems,’ HK is clearly an international city that has advanced in many ways passed not only large cities in Mainland China, but also those in the US. One example is the Octopus Card. This is a card that can be used primarily on the subway but also at 7/11, McDonald’s, parking meters, etc…. How genius is that idea, one card that can pay for just about everything you need in the city but isn’t a credit card. Too bad the US is already owned by credit card companies and a system like this may never emerge in our greater cities.
Anyway, back to the view… The sun was setting and the lights began to flicker as we hiked back down the hill. I can’t tell you how happy it makes me to see one of the largest/busiest cities in the world; this is China’s New York. Once down the hill we headed back to Kowloon. We had some dinner and walked the Temple Street Night Market where you can find just about anything you need. We were tired from walking so much and crashed out around 8 that night watching the Deadliest Catch as the Z’s overcame us.
The next day we headed out for Discovery Bay where we would meet and stay with my Dad’s friend for the night. We took the ferry over to this amazing community that reminded me a little of Avalon Bay. There was lush vegetation and a nice x-pat community plaza with restaurants and outdoor seating that would appeal to anyone who likes to socialize. We met Mr. Swofford and headed up the hill to his extremely nice pad overlooking the bay. It was a beautiful day, finally warming up into the 70’s. Brandon and I set off on some trails that go around the island (Lantau Island). We enjoyed a good 4.5 hour hike to the nearby town of Mui Wo and back again. We saw a snake on the trail and some impressive views from the top peak. We hassled a crab on the beach at Mui Wo and enjoyed being back in nature away from the city. After the long hike we showered up and headed down to the plaza for a surprisingly delicious MEXICAN meal. Who would have thought that some decent burritos were lying right there in HK. We picked up some chocolate and goodies and headed back to finish the night with a movie. What a day it was. And the best part was we had the most comfortable bed I had slept on since I left home!
The following morning we got cleaned up and said our good-by’s. Brandon and I had decided to check out Macau for the heck of it. We barely made our boat that left from central but got it just in time. It was a large catamaran that jets across the bay to nearby Macau. We had to go through the whole exit/entry of countries thing and exchange money AGAIN for Macau is its own entity. Once there we were a little confused… we kept saying to each other, “It looks like… but just isn’t.” The city sort of looked like Vegas (as it’s suppose to be modeled after) but just isn’t. Truthfully, it’s very dirty, old, and a poor man’s version of Vegas. HK actually did something with their independence from Mainland; Macau is simply lost. There are large hotels like the MGM, Venetian, Sands, Hard Rock, and Wynn. But all of them are scattered about. Without a central strip, it just doesn’t feel the same.
We made the most of it however walking around and seeing old forts and what-not. We saw an old fort that seemed like it belonged in Europe and we also saw San Paulo’s ruins which were neat. Macau stems out of Portuguese rule which was actually convenient. Knowing Spanish helped in understanding the Portuguese street names and directions. The best part of Macau was actually trying to find a buffet we had spotted on a billboard coming into the city. We ended up taking a taxi back to the billboard to find out where it was (frustrating because the meter kept running despite being stuck in traffic), then a free shuttle all the way across town to the City of Dreams. We found the buffet and did work on it. Stuffed from the Asian buffet we walked around the Casinos and then made our way back to the Sands Casino on a free shuttle (it was close to our hostel). I taught Brandon craps and proceeded to lose 200 MOP which is like 25 bucks… no big deal. Tired, and broke, I was excited to head back to the hostel and pass out. We’ve been going hard for awhile and I’m in need for a rest!
We woke up early the next morning anticipating and 4 hour bus ride back to Guangzhou. We successfully managed to get through customs, which looked like the border crossing from TJ to the US, and were glad to be back in Mainland. I was glad to have had Brandon on the trip and am anxious to get back to normalcy after having traveled quite a bit. If you've never been to Hong Kong, I highly recommend it. If you do it right, you can see a lot even on a budget. I hope you enjoy reading my adventures :) Stay tuned for more to come early next month.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
Camping Kunming
Now the girls had bicycles and were really stoked on riding there so we gentlemen agreed to lug a majority of the gear on our backs. They set out ahead of us while we made some last minute stops for only the necessities (bottles of rum and whiskey :) yarrr!). Ben (my roommate), Tai, and I all caught a bus to take us up into the hills and drop us off at the Bamboo Temple, our meeting point. Surprisingly the girls made it in only 2 hours while our bus decided to lolligag its way up taking about an hour. Seriously, we would stop at one place, the driver would shut off the engine, and we would sit there for like 5-10 minutes as the driver tried to entice people to hop on our bus. They wouldn't budge until we filled that thing! I got over it but I knew we were only going a short ways and it should have taken only half the time if we'd gone directly. Owell.
We finally met at the Bamboo Temple where the girls, Chiara (my other roommate) and Stef, had been exploring while waiting. We decided to tour the temple on the way out and got to hiking right away from there. We followed the road for maybe 100 yards before veering off into a clearing and hiking upwards. We went a little ways, found a nice clearing, but decided to keep going. It was a good hike, bush-whacking our way through a forest, climbing over mossy grounds and running into spider webs every three minutes. We would find a spot that look suitable but just kept on climbing for we wanted to reach the top. Sure enough we came to a point where solid light was shining through the thick brush. Excited, I surged on and broke through to an extremely large clearing at what seemed to be the top! Stoked on the climb and what we had found, I turned around and hi-fived everyone as they came through the clearing for it was exactly what we had been looking for (hi-fives are under-rated by the way). We seemed to be the only people there but knew we were actually in a state park sort of area. We set our packs down and realized the peak was even higher; so up we went.
The peak was epic! We could see panoramic views of not only the mountains to the west, but also the entire city of Kunming from where we live in the north, to Dianchi Lake in the south. We also made the journey on one of the clearest days yet leaving nothing but blue skies and rolling green hills for our pleasant view. After spending some time on top, we hiked back to our camp to set up the tents, read, write, nap, and enjoy Mother Nature. We were able to build a fire pit with stone and gather wood which meant a delicious meal that Chiara had put together (we ate the back-up sandwiches anyway :). As the sun set we went back to the top, except only half way up, for there were some visitors on the peak that we didn’t want to encroach on. We had fun laughing at the robot-man on a hill across the way where the sun was setting (you have to see the pictures, which I know I’m slacking at but be patient). We enjoyed the beautiful orange and reds that the sun provided that night and then went back down to start the fire. We sat around playing cards, drinking, sharing stories, and simply enjoying each others company with no distractions; no distractions from the TV, internet, noisy buses, iPhones, or anything else technology interrupts our day with. Just good ‘ol camping.
As the evening became full with darkness the fire flung its light about our camp. Likewise, the stars awoke. They came out one at a time but joined us, none the less, as we danced around the fire, full of rum and cheer. We ate noodles mixed with veggies and listened to the rhythmic sounds of Bob Marley, Sublime, and others who sing of happiness and joy. Having finished dinner, we all walked away from the fire to lie on our backs and marvel at the heavens. Although the stars weren’t as present as those in Steamboat, Colorado, it was still a sight to see. That’s when it hit me. We are young. We are free. We can do anything in this world. And at the time we were enjoying the company of friends. There were moments when I felt like I was back in the mountains of CO, camping with my boys back home; or even Julian, CA, which doesn’t hold a candle to CO but is none-the-less a fun camping spot.
That’s what I love about Nature. It has no boundaries and provides the same mystic feel whether one is in China or the US. I believe it is one thing that binds us all.
The next morning I had woken up early (didn’t sleep very well on the rock hard ground). As the others continued to sleep, I hiked back up to the peak despite the frigidness of the morning. I found a quiet spot overlooking the city and just gathered my thoughts as the sun rose. I thought about the connectedness that humans have with nature; this sort of bond that goes unseen but is surely felt. I think John Muir says it best. “Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.” Even if you hate the outdoors, when you stand upon a mountain watching the sun start a new day, it is impossible not to be moved. And in this discovery of nature, we cleanse ourselves anew and remember the basics of living.
*For those who have asked about my address:
John Broyles
150 Wenlin Jie, Apt. 603
Kunming, Yunnan 650000
China
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Shilin-Stone Forest
Shirlin is a town about 76km (47miles) to the southeast of Kunming and is home to a fascinating natural phenomenon. Stonehenge meets Bryce Canyon in the 135 sq. mile park that displays numerous jagged stones jutting up out of the countryside. Shirlin literally stands for ‘stone forest’ and rightfully named. I had seen pictures of the place and was really anxious to get there in real life. Unfortunately, my roommates were busy that day so I decided to take on the challenge of getting there myself, using the little Mandarin that I’ve picked up.
I took a taxi to the main train terminal which also has three different bus terminals, the buses heading out in all directions. When I got out of the taxi I was immediately bombarded by locals who tried showing me where I needed to go in hopes of getting a tip. They thought I was trying to make a bus to Dali (another city close by) but then I told them I was going to Shilin (pronounced sure-lin). They did an immediate 180 and rushed me across the street. I soon found out that all of these people work together for they introduced me to a man who said he would take me there on an express bus for 80kuai (like 12 bucks). I had heard the bus can take up to 4 hours despite the short distance so I said what the heck, this might be better. We then walked back into this parking lot and he put me into his personal car, which although was very nice, definitely wasn’t the bus he told me about. He told me to wait 10 minutes and he’d be right back and then we would go.
Fifteen minutes past and my sketch-o-meter was already past max so I bailed despite their attempts to get me to stay (they were trying to round up more foreigners to maximize the car load). I politely told them to get out of my face and that I was going to find it on my own. So I headed to the train station for I knew there were trains going that direction on a daily basis; plus I was already familiar with the place. However, it took me going to three different ticket windows to get somebody to understand me. Even then they looked confused as hell so I just asked where the bus station was. All they did was point to the left; great, thanks guys! I finally found it though and was happy to have a ticket despite having wasted one hour looking for the right stinking place.
I loaded up with lunch and settled into the half empty bus that was actually comfortable. Off we went, finally! The in-flight movie… some ridiculous Chinese film that involved a breakdance fight that was just hilarious. I don’t know what it is about foreign entertainment, but this film had the same appeal as Most Extreme Elimination Challenge did; quite funny. On our way out we passed a big lake that I had seen on the map before and couldn’t help but picture Chatfield Lake, CO and the fun times wakeboarding I’ve had there. It also made me think of home and all my friends and family that I miss so much. Living in a foreign country isn’t difficult at all; it’s when you find yourself completely alone in a foreign country that your mind starts to race. And mine never stopped. I just couldn’t help thinking of the people that I wish could have been with me at that moment.
Anyway, we finally made it to the park and in only an hour and twenty minutes. I was so excited until I reached the ticket window and realized that I had enough money to get into the park, but not enough for the bus ride home… smart one JB. Fortunately, the only foreign couple I saw the whole day came right behind me to purchase their own tickets. It was difficult for me to ask for money but I did and they were very kind enough to give me a loan. They were staying close to where I live so I vowed to return what they gave me later that night even though it was only $3.00. We went in together but then I broke off to explore on my own.
My first sight of the place was incredible! Up on a little hill top, I could see a majority of the park with the sun hitting it at just the right angle (the pictures are coming soon, I promise!). I was alone for about 5 minutes until I came upon the main area of the park and ran into hundreds of Chinese tourists. I felt like I was at Mecca or something. The place was crowded and noisy. I went up to the main viewing tower where they shoved people along like a sheep heard, cramming us all through the narrow passage ways. Once down from the viewing tower I tried my best to find some isolation, and did. The park has a lot of up and down stairs leading through various passage ways where I found myself completely alone to enjoy the essence of the park. Up and down I went, like a kid at Funplex, enjoying the cool shaded bottoms, gazing up towards the heavens, and then admiring the views from the peaks. The whole park felt like a sanctuary and I was the only disciple. I sat at one narrow gateway, alone…with nothing but the sounds of the birds and silence of the cool stone walls. As I watched the sun set and took in a few moments of reflection, I finally felt a peace about being over here in China. Sure I have left many of you, my friends. But I know I will be back again soon but not without some adventure first! After rushing around with the adrenaline that exploration brings, I thought I’d better make my way towards the exit so that I wouldn’t get myself lost.
I was glad I had made the trek as I left the park… it was definitely a worthwhile adventure. I found the waiting room for buses returning to Kunming and tried to buy a ticket back. Hehe, I was 3kuai short. Fortunately a couple of nice gentlemen were able to spot me (one couple rejected my pitiful request for money, ugh I felt like a begger). But you know, people are inherently good and I’m glad Someone was watching over me to help me get home :).
On the way back I decided that even if I run out of money from traveling and have to return home earlier than expected, it would still be worth it. I’m not going to try to do that, in fact just the opposite, but it’s the discovery of new places and things that gets me up every day and is worth any amount of money (even if you run out). When we returned to Kunming I had to walk home because I was out of cash. Haha, it took me an hour but I made it and saw another part of the city while doing it. That’s it, life is just one big adventure; you never know what the day will bring you so make the most of every day!!!!
(In case you’re wondering, I grabbed the gentlemen’s business card who had loaned me the money at the gate. I went to the hotel and ringed his hotel room. His wife answered and simply told me to email him a thank you but I did at least keep my promise and tried to return the $3 :)
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Kunming
Kunming is a sister city of Denver so I feel at home despite living in the city. It sits at about 6,000 ft. elevation and is home to 5.7 million people, 3 million in the urban areas. The people are friendly and seem to enjoy themselves here. Everywhere you'll see people playing instruments, playing with their children, and flying kites. The park hosts several kite flyers who let out literally 1000+ feet of line which is crazy! Their reel looks like something off of a deep sea fishing vessel. There's even a basketball court in the park which is nothing special but fun to mess around at. It's even more fun watching the Chinese play each other, all of whom suck, but have the biggest smiles on their faces. I guess you could say that life in general is good here :)
Every meal we've eaten out has been at a new restaurant, all of which have blown my taste buds away. The other night we had hot-pot which is a simple pot, split into two sections (or as many as you'd like), each containing a different level of spice to its broth. You then order different plates of meat and veggies to cook in the boiling sauce... and the result is simply mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm! Even though it does a number on the old estomigo, I'll definitely be eating there again. My favorite dish though is the tower of heaven (as I call it). It puts regular french fries to shame. They string out potatoes and fry them in a way that is just delicious, killing any McDonald's french fry challenge. The food is cheap as well which is nice, and when we cook, it's like eating for free. I'm happy to be learning new recipes and to be trying these new foods for most of them are extremely healthy containing lots of veggies. Let's just say that Panda Express looks like tofu next to some of the meals I've had.
Now of course there are the local x-pat restaurants and hang outs where one can order a good 'ol burger and fries but I'm enjoying the Chinese cuisine. The x-pat crew here is fairly large, all of whom were out in their best costumes on Halloween. We made a fun pub crawl through the town enjoying ourselves thoroughly as every Chinese person just stared and laughed at us. What can you say, can't deny tradition. It's fun meeting people from all over who have traveled all over. It truly is a small world, and making friends with people from all over only makes it smaller. Although some dislike seeing the foreign faces (non-Chinese) invading the city, I enjoy meeting new people regardless of where they're from.
I was hoping to have had a job by now but things don't always go as we plan or hope, as I'm no stranger to. None the less, I think I'll find something soon. If nothing else, I'm protecting my savings by living here so cheaply. Kunming is a neat place and a central hub to many exotic destinations. I'm hoping to get out and explore all that Yunnan province has to offer, as well as the neighboring countries (Laos, Vietnam, Burma, India, Nepal, Indo). I pray I get a job soon so that I can afford to make it to these places... but in the mean time, the search continues!
And I apologize for not having pictures up yet... Still working on that one but will post a link as soon as I figure it out... Caio!
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Le Tour de China
On my way up I had to look at the departure board to figure out which terminal was mine. I asked a nice gentleman who luckily spoke decent English and he walked me to the staging area for his was right next to mine. Then it hit me how nice the people here are. In the subway I had three different FEMALES offer to carry my fifty pound bag for me even if only for a short while (yes they were sincere and not just looking to latch onto a foreigner). Then I met the lady at the train station who literally walked me right up to the counter of the hotel. Now this guy was willing to walk me to my staging area and show me exactly where I needed to be and through which door my train would board. I was very thankful to have had such help to get me this far.
While waiting I read nearly half the book I had brought, studied enough Chinese to drive one crazy, and watched this repetitive video that included old scenes of Charlie Chaplin that never got old. It was actually a great time just observing the people and culture. I love how most males will rest their legs by simply squatting, and staying there for lengths at a time. I fortunately had a seat and didn't have to pull the old Chinese squat. It just looks so funny!
Finally the sun had set and my train was ready to board; you would have thought they were giving away free iPhones on the other side the way people were crowding the gates. It was a free-for-all to which I used my bags and size to straight-up clobber people out of the way to get through. One fellow showed me which car I was on and I successfully found my seat. I quickly threw my bags above before space was gone and settled in the middle seat between to hombres. I was glad I boarded towards the front for a shoving match had actually broken out between one of the train attendees and a passenger as to whether or not his bag was going to be stowed above or on his lap. It was quite the scene!
I soon realized that when they say 'hard seat' they mean 'HARD SEAT'. My butt was sore before we even left! I was so happy though once we finally did leave that I knew it was going to be hard to sleep. It was night-time so I couldn't see a thing but it was fun being on this train (at least at first). I felt like I was back on the PLNU bus headed for Fresno for a track meet; everybody just piled in, laughing having a good time. Then when it came time to sleep, everybody struggled. People were literally sleeping standing up, sitting down, on the floor, on each other! It was ridiculous. I just put my backpack in my lap and laid my head forward onto it and was actually able to get spurts of sleep. One hour here, 45 minutes there... I made due.
I survived the first night and was so excited to see China by day and without smog! But then as the sun rose I realized that the smog was still very present despite being some 7-8 hours outside of Beijing. I was depressed :(! My whole intent for taking the train was to see the countryside and all I could see was smog for days.
I had fun though trying to communicate with my seat mates and learning Chinese. They were all very nice people (go see my Facebook pictures!). Back in Beijing I was told that the train would take 30 hours. Another person told me 48 and another 27. So I was positive and thought 30 hours, I can do this! All told the train trip took 46 hours 19 minutes as we traversed the countryside. Finally about 23 hours into it we started to see some beautiful rolling hills covered in lush green foliage. Although still smoggy it was quite a sight. It was interesting seeing all of the little villages along the way. Unfortunately, I came to the conclusion that the Chinese either don't believe in perfection, or simply can't afford it. Everywhere I saw garbage cluttered about; construction sites that were abandoned leaving tons of scrap metal and garbage everywhere; unpaved roads and less than desirable living conditions. We in the US have the luxury of perfection where things get done and get done right. We have manicured lawns, perfect designer kitchens, and excellent infrastructure. These are just a few of the many observations I had along the way.
The last 5 hours of our trip was just breathtaking as we neared Kunming. The countryside was gorgeous and reminded me of the Yampa Valley in NW Colorado. Flowing waves of grain and beautiful little cottages were everywhere. The air was clean and clear and the colors were full in the fall season. I was relieved to know I was going to be living in such a beautiful place. For the past 46 hours and 19 minutes, I had subjected myself to complete isolation (mentally), complete discomfort, and complete anxiety. Yet as tired as I was, I am so grateful to have had this experience. Mark Twain once said that "A man who carries a cat by its tail learns something he can learn in no other way." That's sort of how I feel about this trip. The train ride was complete and I had arrive in Kunming! The girl who sat in our section had given me a little souvenir of the Great Wall before we departed. We had all become as close as strangers can within 48 hours and I really enjoyed laughing with these people. Once again I was floored at the generosity and kindness. With the trip over, it was time to find my apartment and meet my new roommates!
My Arrival in Beijing
Anyways...
I arrived in Beijing after a pleasant 12 hour flight from San Francisco on a beautiful day. Beijing can get very smoggy (LA X 10) but when I arrived we could actually see some blue sky. We got in around 2:30pm giving me plenty of time to make the 7 o'clock train I was hoping to catch headed for Kunming. I took the Beijing lightrail (subway, whatever you want to call it) shluffing all 85+ pounds of my crap all the way across town. One and a half hours later I had reached the station where I needed to get off.
Walking up to street level some older Chinese man saw me carrying all of my stuff, ran down, grabbed my 50 pound duffel bag and helped me the rest of the way. It was a very nice gesture but then, as he reached the top of the stairs he just turned the corner and headed off towards the taxi's (yea, I guess I kind of stick out and perhaps look like a sucka). He flagged down a man on a little bike/rickshaw thing and just through my bag in the back of it. I had kept up though and knew he wasn't going anywhere for I had mentally gotten myself into track mode! It was all good though; I showed the cyclist on a map where the train station was and he already seemed to know that's where I was headed. I barely fit in this thing with all three of my bags but held on for dear life as this man motored me the one mile distance to the train station via little ally-ways. It was finally nice to just sit back and take in Beijing as the sun was getting lower. The people are fascinating and so are their ways of life.
He finally came to an abrupt halt where I proceeded to unload, practically tumbling out of his rickshaw. I paid him the 10 kuai ($1.50) it cost for the little ride and made my way towards the train station. I was glad I had made it this far with no hassle and was hoping to get a little further by catching this train.
Fortunately it wasn't too crowded at the ticket counters so I didn't have to wait that long. I was two hours early and couldn't wait to get on my sleeper train to conk out. Then the lady at the ticket counter, who actually spoke English (thank goodness) informed me that all trains to Kunming were full until the next night!! I was losing daylight and didn't know what to do; finally I just decided that the next day was my only choice. So I booked the ticket, which was a hard seat (there are four different ways to ride the train; listed from best to worst: soft sleeper, hard sleeper, soft seat, and :( hard seat. I also noticed that I was on the train K471 which is worse than the train T61 (I'll tell ya how worse in my next post). Now it was time to find a hotel.
A nice lady outside the terminal figured out my gestures and body language attempts to communicate 'hotel' and walked me right up to the front desk of one that was attached to the train station. It was only $50 for the night which was great. Everything here is cheap cheap. I cleaned up and went exploring a little; I found a grocery store and loaded up with two loaves of bread and 4L of water for the train ride. I wasn't sure if food was readily offered on the train nor how much it would cost. After checking the place out I came back to nestle in for the night. I had traveled some 6,000 miles and had a few more to go. I was anxious for the coming day but excited at what might happen on this adventurous train ride!
(See Facebook for pictures... although I am ONLY using Facebook to share pictures and not to communicate)
Monday, October 19, 2009
A Leap Of Faith
So life begins... I mean the first 20 some odd years are really just a learning phase in life. Now with my degree in hand, supposedly I've acquired a 'higher' education and have learned a sufficient amount of knowledge to make it on my own. And even though school may be out for my peers and me, it seems that humans never stop learning. But now its time to start applying what we've learned; and if there's one thing I've learned it's that life is too short to deny myself the pleasure of discovering the many different cultures, languages, and landscape that this world has to offer. So why settle down and deny my passion of adventure...
Yes, you can make life work just about anywhere. If I so desired to stay within my comfort zone among my family and friends, I could. But since life doesn't always go to plan, we must take the doors that are open to us even if it's uncomfortable. Therefore I'm off to Kunming, China for a life adventure as many of you now know.
I’ve decided that human beings without question have free will within the confines of God’s great, mysterious ways. I’ve prayed for some decision to magically pop up in front of my face that I could easily grab. But God has provided too many options for me with very little guidance.
That’s where the Leap of Faith comes in…
No matter what we do in life (as long as we give it our best efforts), God will always be there to support us. I have no clue what my living situation will be like or what I will do to earn an income; but I know that if I take the leap, God will catch me.
So I’m off… I don’t know when I’ll be back but trust me friends when I say that God is with us each and every day whether we sense Him or not. If you are afraid of making a big life decision right now... follow your heart, relax, put your faith in God, and take a Leap of Faith!
Night fisherman on the Li River